"Ali Dirik opened this ocakbaşi, a style of Turkish eatery focused on charcoal grilling, in the mid-’90s and quickly gained a following. Fast-forward nearly 30 years and his sons Ferhat and Sertaç are at the helm, with a revamped menu—think grilled sourdough pide topped with shaved lamb heart, and raki-battered purple broccoli—and a mostly natural wine list that sets their place apart from other more casual shops in Dalston."