"Helmed by Zach Kolomeir, the former chef de cuisine at Montreal’s bacchanalian bistro Joe Beef, Dreyfus is an unquestionably charming, unquestionably diminutive French-ish bistro tucked inside a brick row house. The cozy space is imbued with Québécois flair, from the handwritten French menu (deciphered by amiable waiters for non-Francophones like myself) to the kitchen’s unrestrained use of butter. After perching at the bar and snagging a bottle of wine from the all-natural lineup, my partner and I happily ordered half the menu. It was summer, so we were especially spoiled: heirloom tomatoes on aioli-smeared challah toast, fried anchovies tossed with shishito peppers, and impossibly crisp pommes dauphine—a dangerous mix of mashed potatoes and choux pastry, deep-fried and served with sour cream and trout roe. It was too much. It was perfect." - ByAliza Abarbanel
