"If it seems like the staff painstakingly slicing fish against a backdrop of dried fruit and sturdy babka loaves know what they’re doing, that’s because they do—and this place has been at it for more than 100 years. Take a numbered ticket, claim a corner of linoleum, and gawk at the sturgeon while rehearsing your bagel-and-lox order." - ByThe Bon Appétit Staff