"The version chef-owner Richard Ho serves out of his teeny-tiny spot (there are only 10 seats) in New York’s East Village is a thing of absolute beauty: Glossy, soy-braised beef shanks from sustainable butchery Happy Valley Meat Co. An intricately layered broth made of the braising liquid, jellied beef stock, and a little bit of “mother broth” from the previous day’s batch. Flappy, white flour noodles with the right amount of chew. Mustard greens, salt-pressed and fermented for about a month. And if you’re willing to pay a little extra (which, if you know what’s good for you, you will), a chile crisp–esque finger bowl of beef fat seasoned with three types of chiles. Altogether, it’s like sinking into a pair of 100 percent cashmere joggers (they exist!): It’s satisfying and cozy and, at the same time, so next-level luxurious." - ByElyse Inamine