"A smart space on one of the city’s most attractive residential streets is home to MeroToro, chef Jair Téllez’s paean to the surf-and-turf delights that constitute Baja California cuisine. Thevibeis warm and easygoing even as the menu steers diners toward less-conventional selections, on a revised-daily bill of fare, that insist on organic, hormone-free, and as local as possible (sharing absolutely allowed). Seasonal vegetables and Mexico -only herbs are always part of the offering, and yummies like seafood dishes with aguachile, grilled shellfish, a bone-marrow risotto, and a signature fall-off-the-bone pork jowl are big hits whenever they turn up on the menu."