The Best of the Chilean Heartland

@afar
 on 2022.02.03
Multiple locations
12 Places
@afar
Head east toward the towering, snowcapped Andes, visible from much of Santiago like a backbone. During the winter months, Mother Nature blankets the slopes with white powder. An hour south of the city, the Maipo Wine Valley offers some of the best terroir in the world for cabernet and Bordeaux blends. Credit: Collected by Liz Caskey, AFAR Local Expert

Viña Concha y Toro

Wine store · Pirque

"The Devil Lives in Chile As an avid wine lover, I make it a point to visit various wine regions around the world. When I came across a place like Concha y Toro, and their sprawling caves of wine, I couldn't help but feel that I had stumbled upon a little slice of heaven. Located in Pirque, in the Maipo Valley, 45 minutes outside of of Santiago , Concha y Toro has steadily been making wine since it was originally established back in 1883. Upon arriving, visitors are instantly taken on a fantastic tour of the grounds. You begin in the tasting room, where you sample a few of their choice selections of white wines. The tour will then take you around the grounds, through the vineyards, and eventually into bowels of the winery where you will learn about the cellar Casillero del Diablo! Legend has it that the fine wines that reside in the cellar below are not only great libations, but are also eerily protected by the Devil himself. Some will not venture to the cellar, some say they know people who have not returned from the cellar, while others claim to have glimpsed a shadow or a flicker that gave them the chills so they quickly fled back to the safety of the daylight above. I do not know if any of this is true, but I DO know that the selection of reserve reds I tasted at the end of the tour were absolutely divine. As I departed from Concha y Toro, I couldn't help but think that maybe, just maybe, while down in the cellar that we weren't quite alone. Perhaps the Devil lives in heaven after all."

Valle Nevado

Ski resort · Santiago

"The Ultimate Day Trip: Ski the Andes While sitting at dinner one night in Santiago with my brother, it occurred to us that we should try to ski and snowboard the Andes while we were there for a few days. A quick ask at our hostel, and we were set up for the ultimate day trip, complete with gear and transportation to and from the Valle Nevado ski resort. There are numerous outfitters in Santiago that will put together an inexpensive day trip to the slopes at a moment's notice. After a long, yet scenic 46-kilometer ride from the city, you will exit the van and gaze longingly at the majestic Andes mountains. Valle Nevado is one of the more modern ski resorts, and it even played host to the World Snowboarding Championships in 2005. And with over 800 hectares of ski-friendly area, even the most elite athlete will not get bored on this terrain. If you're in Santiago, and have some time on your hands, this is the ultimate day trip."

Pirque

Pirque

"Concha y Toro Winery The Concha y Toro winery, located in Pirque, in the Maipo Valley, 45 minutes outside of Santiago , has steadily been making wine since it was originally established back in 1883. Upon arriving, visitors are taken on a fantastic tour of the grounds. You begin in the tasting room, where you sample a few of their choice selections of white wines. The tour then takes you around the grounds, through the vineyards, and eventually into the bowels of the winery where you will learn about the cellar Casillero del Diablo! Legend has it that the fine wines that reside in the cellar below are not only great libations, but are also eerily protected by the Devil himself (pictured above). Some will not venture to the cellar, some say they know people who have not returned from the cellar, while others claim to have glimpsed a shadow or a flicker that gave them the chills, so they quickly fled back to the safety of the daylight above."

MachalĂ­

MachalĂ­

"Puma Lodge, Fundo Sierra Nevada A two-and-a-half-hour drive (or 45-minute helicopter ride) from Santiago , Puma Lodge has been a heli-skiing headquarters since it opened in 2011. First Tracks Puma’s guests have exclusive access to nearly 2,000 square miles of terrain in the Chilean Cordillera. Guides take groups on untracked runs down glacial peaks. Lodge Perks Built from pine and river rocks, the 24-room lodge has a rustic feel but offers comforts such as alfresco hot tubs, a spa, and a game room with billiards. Skiers refuel with peumo -wood-smoked pork and Chilean wine. Peak Season The best skiing conditions are generally found from mid-July to early September. From $358. 56/(0) 2-2432-6800."

Photo by Michael Turek

Rosario

Rengo

"Classic Chilean Cuisine at Trucker Road Stop This unassuming restaurant off the Route 5 (Panamerican Highway) South got started in 1947 and became famous among the truckers who followed the route. In 2008, the original restaurant, which has haphazardly grown, burnt to the ground and was rebuilt, to double the size. The locals still pack in all day long to eat huge portions of homemade, classic Chilean cuisine that rotates seasonally. There are no shortcuts in the kitchen; the "pan amasado," or country-style bread, is made throughout the day and served with a piquant chili sauce. The specialty of the house in the summer are corn-based specialties like the corn-basil tamales, "humitas" (in photos), and iconic corn pie. During the winter, savory stews like cazuela are cornerstones as are the perennial favorite cuts of meat like "plateada," enough for two people to eat. Juan y Medio also has a good list of artisan beers to wash down the meal, or you can follow Chileans' suit and try one of the sweet sodas with flavor of the local papaya, Bilz. Route 5 South Km. 109, Rosario, Chile +56 72 521 726 (reservations not necessary)"

Rancagua

Rancagua

"Chile's National Sport: Rodeo The birthplace of the Chilean rodeo was in the Central Valley, the heartland of Chile . The participants are "huasos," Chilean cowboys who dress for the rodeos with elegant ponchos or chamantos, carved wooden stir-ups, silver spurs, and flat-brimmed hats called "chupallas." Huasos work with "criolla" horses who are trained especially to work in the tight space of rodeo half-moon stadiums (medialunas). Chilean rodeos are not only about equestrian skills and the purity of the horse's breed but also about working in teams of two to work to lift the "novillo" (young steer) and touch the cow against a cushion for points from a judge. Rodeos in Chile are wildly popular and the season runs every year from September (the month of Independence holidays) to April, culminating in the rodeo finals in the provincial city of Ranchagua, an hour south of Santiago . Rodeos are a family endeavor, and often nice restaurants set up during the event to serve classic Chilean cuisine. For locations and times, refer to the link below, or if you cannot attend a match, there is a rodeo channel on Chilean cable TV during the season."

Doñihue

Doñihue

"The Art of Chamanto Weaving Chamantos are ornate silk ponchos that the Chilean "huasos," cowboys, adorn for the rodeos that take place in Chile 's central valley from September to April each year. The origin of this weaving tradition dates back to almost two hundred years ago and was brought from Spain . The weavers who make these chamantos and ponchos are called "chamanteras," and outside of Rancagua, there's a small dusty town called Donihue where the tradition has been kept alive. There are no schools where this task may be taught: the secrets of the loom are passed on from generation to generation. Chamantos are woven on large looms that separate hundreds of thin silk threads (or wool in the case of ponchos). A hardwood shuttle prevents the threads from being tangled, and a small spindle complements the weaving process. Making a chamanto may take three months or more of full-time work due to its intricacy of patterns like copihues (Chilean national flower) or grapevine leaves. Both the chamanto and poncho are straight one-piece ponchos that cover the huasos’ shoulders down to their waist. However, the huasos only wear chamantos when they dress up for rodeo competitions. Chamantos are true works of art, and the rodeo tradition in Chile would not exist without the "chamanteras" who dress their cowboys."

"South America's Most Ambitious Wine Project Located in the hills of the western Cachapoal wine valley, on the border with Colchagua, Alexdandre Vik has placed his bets on the terroir to be the birthplace of his stellar wine, VIK. Vik is one of the most ambitious wine projects in South America. Its vineyards encompass the entire Millahue Valley (a sub appellation) and are divided into 30+ "microterroirs." The wine is under the watch of esteemed consultant Patrick Valette to produce Bordeaux-style blend that is elegant, silky and balanced. Come October, Vik will also have its very own five-star hotel, a sort of wine lodge "getaway" strategically perched on a hill overlooking the vines, lagoon, and Andes. Hotel guess can be pampered with long hikes, horseback rides, or biking in the vineyards, unwind with private yoga class or in their spa, and of course, visit the winery and drink this fabulous wine. Prices start at US$1,200 per night. Photo: Francisco Ramirez (http://eatwineblog.com)"

Clos Apalta Residence

Hotel · Colchagua

"Located just outside of Santa Cruzin the heart of the Colchagua Valley, Clos Apalta Residence (formerly Lapostolle Residence) is known for its premium Chilean wine.In 2005, the Marnier family opened the stunning property on a steep hillside in the micro region of Apalta. In addition to a state-of-the-art, gravity-fed winery, they built four villas, giving wine lovers a unique place to stay. Today, Clos Apalta functions as a Relais & Chateaux luxury hotel, complete with beautiful views of the valley and its surrounding mountains. Guests can relax on their private terrace, in the lodge, or by the infinity pool, sipping house wines while enjoying the vistas. They also have exclusive access to the dining room, where chefs use produce from the hotel’s own organic garden, and tours of the owners’ wine cellar during visits to the winery."

Santa Cruz

Santa Cruz

"Colchagua Valley: Chile's Napa Located 100 miles south of Santiago , the Colchagua Valley has in the past decade become one of Chile 's wine hotbeds for the production of robust red wines. Stretching from the Andean foothills in the east through the coastal mountains to west, always following the Tinguirrica River, the valley is renowned for its "big" reds like Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Chile 's flagship wine, Carmenere. The majority of the vineyards lie in the center of the valley around the small country town of Santa Cruz with its charming colonial plaza and several hotels. New vineyard plantations are also extending into the hillsides in prestigious sub appellations like Apalta nearby and to the west towards the sea. Besides red wine, Colchagua is also steeped heavily in Chile's country traditions and cowboy culture as an agricultural valley, making it an ideal weekend getaway. For wine enthusiasts, every March during harvest the valley puts on its annual harvest festival during a whole weekend with tastings from valley wineries, regional food, music, dance, and local color."

Vina Montes

Restaurant · Colchagua

"Sophisticated Sipping at Montes Winery Widely regarded as Chile 's pioneer premium winery, the first to export higher quality wines from Chile nearly two decades ago, Montes is synonymous with the Colchagua Valley. Located in the heart of the micro appellation Apata where its finest vineyards are planted, the modern winery sits at the feet of the steep hillsides where the vines climb at gravity-defying angles (brave grape pickers every harvest). Many loyal Montes' lovers make the pilgrimage to visit the winery and particularly love the impressive, semi-circular underground cellar lying in the heart of the building. Built with concentric half-rings of 800 new French oak barrels, the cellar truly appears to be a "stage." Here, the Montes "icon" wines like Purple Angel, Folly (Syrah) and Montes M quietly age while listening to the soothing sounds of Gregorian chants. Guests can visit the winery and then choose from a variety of tastings. Or they can stop in for a quick lunch at Cafe Alfredo and sip their earthy Carmenere on the terrace with stunning views of the vine-covered hillsides. Photo: Montes Wines"

AmbrosĂ­a

Restaurant · Santiago

"Make Your Mouth Water at Ambrosia Making its debut one the list of the 50 best restaurants in Latin America in 2015, young chef Carolina Bazan, takes the abundance of Chilean markets and sensational produce and delivers them with a creative, slightly French flare to diners. Originally located in downtown Santiago , the restaurant has relocated out to Las Condes to more spacious digs surrounded by their gorgeous garden. Standout dishes on the menu are Wagyu pot roast with creamy blue cheese mashed potatoes and they make a delicious homemade ketchup and Bearnaise sauce. Service can slow so go with patience--and a reservation. Pamplona 78, Las Condes +56 2 217 3075 Photo: Carolina Bazan (Ambrosia)"