Exploring La Vieille Capitale

@afar
 on 2022.02.03
15 Places
@afar
Understanding Quebec means exploring La Vieille Capitale. Quebec City is one of Canada's premiere cultural enclaves, where the best in art, cuisine, and the outdoors come together in one unique French Canadian package. La Vieille Capitale is synonymous with all that makes Canada authentic; Quebec City glistens during the Quebec Winter Carnival – the perfect time to explore an ice hotel – and shines in the summer, when the streets of La Vieille Capitale buzz with energy. Credit: Collected by Flash Parker, AFAR Ambassador

La Citadelle de Québec

Fortress · Old Québec

"The Gibraltar of America" Drive half a day north from Boston , and you arrive in French-speaking QuĂ©bec City, established in 1608 on a strategic bluff above the St. Lawrence River, still surrounded by its wall. Charles Dickens' 19th-century description of the place still holds true: "The impression made upon the visitor by this Gibraltar of America, its giddy heights, its citadel suspended, as it were, in the air; its picturesque steep streets and frowning gateways; and the splendid views which burst upon the eye at every turn, is at once unique and lasting.” Thoreau wrote: “I still remember the harbour far beneath me, sparkling like silver in the sun, the answering headlands of Point Levis on the south-east, the frowning Cap Tourmente abruptly bounding the seaward view in the north-east
You look out from the ramparts of the citadel beyond the frontiers of civilization. Yonder small group of hills [form] the portals of the wilds which are trodden only by the feet of the Indian hunters as far as Hudson's Bay." Mid-summer in QuĂ©bec city is one giant festival. Come in July for a plethora of outdoor performances in the late-lingering twilight: http://www.infofestival.com/"

Rue du Petit Champlain

Notable street · Old Québec

"Trompe-l'oeil: Transparency by the St. Lawrence I've been to QuĂ©bec City several times, and it's never boring. Street art is all over Vieux-QuĂ©bec (The "Old" city)—sculpture, plantings, frescoes... This is the Fresque du Petit Champlain, just a couple of blocks from the St. Lawrence River, a fresco depicting various periods in the history of this neighborhood, the oldest commercial street in North America. Once, on a train from QuĂ©bec to MontrĂ©al, I struck up a conversation with a woman whose family used to live in this neighborhood. Although it's still residential, with restaurants and boutiques, it's always full of tourists. Back then, she said, "it was full of Irish immigrant families," like hers. "Although they didn't speak French, they and the QuĂ©becois got along just fine—they all hated the English!"

Fairmont Le ChĂąteau Frontenac

Hotel · Old Québec

"Set high above the St. Lawrence on Cap Diamant, overlooking Old QuĂ©bec, this imposing yet inviting landmark is as much a lodging as it is a tourist attraction, borne out of its reputation as the most photographed hotel in the world. Opened in 1893 by the Canadian Pacific Railway to drum up luxury riders for itstrains, the castle-like Fairmont Le ChĂąteau Frontenac feels every bit as grand today as it must have when Roosevelt and Churchill secretly hatched plans for the invasion of Normandy here in 1943—and it continues to be the hotel of choice for A-list celebrities and other notables. A $75 million renovation in 2014 updated the 611 rooms with a more contemporary feel, draping spaces in chic furnishings and soothing shades of gray and cream, plus butter-yellow or soft turquoise accents. The spa features seven treatment rooms adjacent to an indoor pool, whirlpool, steam rooms, and a gym, but the hotel has become a destination for its food: Champlain restaurant is helmed by acclaimed young chef StĂ©phane Modat and offers a modern take on QuĂ©bĂ©cois cuisine alongside magnificent views, while 1608 Wine & Cheese Bar highlights local wines, cheeses, and charcuteries."

Photo courtesy of Fairmont Hotels & Resorts

Korrigane - Brasserie Artisanale

Brewpub · Saint-Roch

"Settle in to Saint-Roch at Korrigane The Saint-Roch neighborhood, a 15-minute walk from Vieux-Québec (Old Québec), is a popular place to hang out, thanks in part to this microbrewery and bistro. All the beers are handmade in old-fashioned styles. Try the Malgven, a toasty amber ale. 300 Rue Dorchester, Québec City, (418) 614-0932. This appeared in the January/February 2013 issue."

"A Cool Ice Hotel Quebec really knows how to throw a party. It may be cold, but the Quebecois absolutely love it. The Hotel de Glace is just one example. Covering 32,000 square feet, this glistening example of "ice engineering" is just too much fun to pass up. If you're feeling adventurous, make a reservation and spend the night, all of the rooms are themed differently with unique ice carvings in each room. The hotel will provide you with arctic-style sleeping bags designed to keep you warm well below zero. If perhaps you would like a libation, there is a bar that serves signature drinks. I sampled a Hotel De Glace cocktail that consisted of vodka and ice cider served in a shot glass carved from ice. After dark, the hotel comes to life with beautiful colored lighting that really highlights the structure. For a bit more fun for you adrenaline junkies, you will find a climbing wall made of ice, the gauntlet is now thrown down. For more information visit the hotel's web site at http://www.hoteldeglace- canada .com. Photograph by www.xdachez.com By Kurt Winner"

"Occupying a 17th-century wharf and cannon battery alongside threeother 18th- and 19th-century buildings in QuĂ©bec’s Old Port, Auberge Saint-Antoine is a history buff’s dream. During the restorationand construction oftheRelais & Chateaux property, an extensive archaeological dig unearthed artifacts dating back to the 1600s, many of which are on display in 95 individually designed room, which are decorated in a soothing palette of cream and gold offset by splashes of regal scarlet. The warehouse where Chez Muffyis located dates back to 1822 and has wonderfully preserved stone walls, as does the on-site cinema. But it’s not all old-world charm. The airy health club offers spa treatments using Canadian skincare line G.M. Collins, and the hotel’s gourmet food truck hosts summer pop-up events in the nearbyVignoble de Sainte-PĂ©tronille vineyard on Île d’Orleans."

Photo courtesy of Auberge Saint-Antoine

"Aux Anciens Canadiens in Upper Town is a venerable favorite amongQuĂ©bec City's restaurants. It opened in 1966 though the building it's in is almost three centuries older than that, having been built in 1676. It's easy to find—the red-roofed house looks as if it were moved from the QuĂ©bec countryside into the heart of the city. As it happens, it was the other way around: After the house was built, the city grew up around it. Inside, there are five different dining rooms, all equally cozy and inviting, especially if you are visiting in the winter. The menu focuses on solid, excellent traditional dishes, many featuring game: bison stew, red deer fillet, grilled stag, and bison and wapiti tenderloins. And for dessert, try the maple syrup crĂšme brĂ»lĂ©e. The $20 three-course prix fixe menu comes with a glass of house wine and is a good option if you are on a budget, though be aware that there are supplemental charges for many of the dishes offered."

Photo courtesy of Aux Anciens Canadiens

Épicerie J.A. Moisan

Gourmet grocery store · Saint-Jean-Baptiste

"Epicurean Delight Opened in 1871 as a general store, J.A .Moisan is now specialty foods store. When I’m in Old QuĂ©bec, it’s my go-to place for items for a picnic lunch or lazy dinner. Stepping inside J.A. Moisan, you're greeted by old world charm—a dark, wood-filled room crammed with foodstuffs. I feel like I’ve been transported back to the 1870s. There are two sets of entry doors. I always enter in on the right side because those take me straight to the deli counter. There I will find the delicious pates, terrines, and cheeses that my epicurean heart pines for. With restraint, I pick out a few items. Into my picnic bag will go a baguette, a box of crackers, some fruit, and drinks. But what picnic lunch would be complete without dessert, and who makes better desserts than the French? Seriously. Just around the corner from the deli counter is the desserts counter. As I near it, I always seem to hear Madame Mille-Feuille calling me, and if they have Napoleons, I have to have some. I confess that there have been days when one dessert goes into the picnic bag and the other is devoured before I even leave the store. J.A. Moisan has a small cafe section with a few tables. Before I leave, I head to the shelves stocked with "produit d’erable" which, in my mind, translates to yummy stuff made with the goodness of maple syrup. I pick up a few items for my own pantry and as gifts for friends. If you’re a foodie visiting Old QuĂ©bec, J.A. Moisan is worth a visit. Bring a big bag!"

La Barberie - Microbrasserie

Brewpub · Saint-Roch

"QuĂ©bec’s Coolest Hangout When I say that La Barberie is QuĂ©bec’s coolest hangout I’m really not exaggerating. I promise! For starters, there is no food on the menu snacks (at least on the day I visited). This is actually not a bad thing because you can just bring your own lunch or dinner and stick to ordering beers. Now in its 15th year, La Barberie wears the crown as QuĂ©bec’s first micro-brewery. Besides the delicious locally brewed beers, you can even take a few home. They bottle a few varieties and it’s a great way to enjoy your brew both here and at home. They also plant their own tomatoes and other herbs and freely give them away to customers. Above all, the prices are extremely fair. I personally tried their sampler which consisted of with beers (if I remember correctly) and that equals roughly two pints. This was $15 CAD. The crowd is very friendly and ranges from young professionals to middle-aged couples and pretty much everyone in between. More on Bohemian Trails . By Megan Eileen McDonough"

"This sprawling museum is located in four buildings near Battlefields Park—the most recent of them, the Pierre Lassonde pavilion, opened in 2016 and was designed by starchitect Rem Koolhaas's OMA. The 25,000 works in its permanent collection cover the history of art in the province, beginning with the French colonial period and including artists who are still active today. The museum also holds one of the world's most important collections of Inuit art, with some 100 pieces—mostly carvings in stone, whalebone, or ivory—on display at any one time. Temporary exhibitions focus on both local and international artists. If you have time for a sit-down meal, TempĂ©ra QuĂ©becor—helmed by Marie-Chantal Lepage, one of QuĂ©bec's best-known chefs—is near the entrance of the new pavilion, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out over the grounds and the Grande AllĂ©e."

Photo by Jeff Frenette Photography, courtesy Ville De Quebec

49 Rue D'Auteuil

Building · Old Québec

"French Canadian Charm Old QuĂ©bec City looks and feels like a charming town in France that was transported to the shores of the St. Lawrence River more than four centuries ago. Step foot in Old QuĂ©bec City and you’ll be surrounded by quaint, historic stone buildings flanking narrow streets paved with stone blocks. Everywhere you go, you will be reminded of the region’s Francophone heritage but this is not France, it’s Canada and the native Indian tribes have put their stamp on the QuĂ©bĂ©cois identity. The result is a wonderful fusion of two cultures. French is the language spoken but the accent is uniquely QuĂ©bĂ©cois. There is plenty of divine French food to be savored but I also scarfed down more than my fair share of QuĂ©bec’s quintessential foods, poutine and tourtiĂšre. I loved strolling through galleries specializing in native Indian art. By the time I got home, I had gained a few pounds and developed an obsession with Inuit soapstone sculptures! Old QuĂ©bec City is undeniably a place that you will want to explore on foot. After you end your stroll through Place-Royal and Quartier du Petit Champlain, walk up to Terrasse Dufferin and gaze up at the famed hotel, ChĂąteau Frontenac. Then head to the ramparts of the Citadelle to take in the views overlooking the St. Lawrence. Old QuĂ©bec City is a beautiful city with old world European charm that beckons you to slow down. If you live on the east coast of the US, a visit to Old QuĂ©bec City makes for a perfect long weekend escape!"

Montmorency Falls

Observation deck · Chutes-Montmorency

"Under 20 minutes by car from QuĂ©bec City (or, if you are feeling ambitious, less than an hour by bike, with most of the ride on a well-maintained path), Chute-Montmorency (Montmorency Falls) is the area's most impressive natural wonder. If you visit the MusĂ©e National des Beaux-Arts du QuĂ©bec before you go, the sight will look familiar: Montmorency has long been a popular subject for local painters. Think Niagara is impressive? The cascade here is a full 99 feet higher—272 feet to the Horseshoe Falls' 173 feet. In winter, spray from the falls freezes into a hill at its base, known as the Sugarloaf, and snowshoes are available for rent if you want to explore the nearby trails. In the summer, there's a zip line for those in search of an adrenaline bump. Year-round, a cable car carries passengers to the top of the falls, providing bird's-eye views en route."

Photo by Margo Pfeiff

Carnaval de Québec

Festival · Parliament Hill

"Bonhomme's Ice Palace Rocks Winter Carnaval de QuĂ©bec The place to be right now and every February is QuĂ©bec; specifically at the 60th Winter Carnaval de QuĂ©bec. And if you're a fan of winter fun and ice buildings, this bit of info is for you. Bonhomme, the larger-than-life Carnaval mascot lives in the Ice Palace.The structure at 300 tons of ice and at 40 feet tall, is made of 40% more ice than 2013’s palace and includes individually sculpted rooms of the “King of the Party” Bonhomme. Carnaval goers are invited to explore his foyer, kitchen, bedroom and dining room, all so stylishly decorated with items sculpted from ice. The mysterious Bonhomme creates the joi-de-vivre each winter for the QuĂ©bequoise and visitor. Almost a cult figure and certainly a celebrity, his persona can ignite hysteria at some of the drink-fueled nightime concerts he attends during Carnaval. In his Ice Palace, discover “ bits and pieces of Bonhomme’s private life and his creation workshop where all of his crazy ideas come to life!“ says the proud Carnaval Committee. Certainly based on the excitement he generates, this new glimpse into his “ life” in the Ice Palace will delight his adoring fans. Carnaval opens for 2014 January 31st when the world’s largest winter celebration launches a huge fireworks show, and concludes February 16th. The entire schedule of events throughout QuĂ©bec is online. It is the biggest celebration in the snow you'll have all winter, Bonhomme guarantees it."

Photo courtesy of Carnaval de Québec

Quebec City

Old Québec

"Picturesque Wintery Escapes from Montreal The province of Quebec is notorious for its quaint, picturesque villages. The compact forests and the thousands of lakes in the Laurentides region certainly make for the picture-perfect Canadian postcard, including the beautiful lakeside chapel in Saint-Alphonse or the wholesome locals of Old-Town Saint-Sauveur. On the other hand, the rolling hills of the Eastern Townships are as bucolic as it gets: villages like Hudson, with its gourmet market, microbrewery and century-old houses have a slight England feel, as does nearby Sutton. However, the ultimate wintery escape from Montreal surely is Quebec City, with the snow-capped ChĂąteau Frontenac, 400+ year old historic center and festive winter Carnival every February."

Photo by Sandra Cohen-Rose /Flickr

Dufferin Terrace

Historical landmark · Old Québec

"Overlooking the St. Lawrence River, the Terrasse Dufferin (Dufferin Terrace) runs along the top of a cliff, some 200 feet above the Lower Town, and is presided over by the grande dame hotel Fairmont Le ChĂąteau Frontenac. The terrace was constructed in 1879 and is named after Lord Dufferin, governor-general of Canada from 1872 to 1878, who is credited with saving the old city walls after zealous city planners began to tear them down. The terrace is some 1,400 feet long and makes for a pleasant place to stroll, or sit, if you are visiting Quebec City on a sunny day. The funicular thatdescends to the Lower Town is found at the northern end of the terrace, near a statue of Samuel de Champlain."

Photo by Derek Trask / age fotostock