"If the name doesn’t tip you off, photos of Eva and Juan You-Know-Who, crammed into every available space, announce this restaurant’s campy (though not entirely tongue-in-cheek) political sympathies. No matter your ideological bent, you’ll enjoy PP’s exquisite versions of traditional Argentine stews, grilled meats, and freshwater fish. Menu items bear humorous names related to political trivia you probably won’t get, but you might learn the words to a peronista march diners and waiters intone every hour, on the hour. Order the braised osso buco with polenta or the grilled pacú (a freshwater fish) with potatoes, tomatoes, and capers. By Travesías"

"Buller Pub Check out the Argentine craft-beer scene at Buller Brewery, an industry pioneer. Expect some sixteen suds varieties—homemade or artisanally sourced—to wash down pub-grub classics like burgers, nachos, onion rings and pigs-in-a-blanket. The warehouse-chic décor guarantees an informal atmosphere and the menu is pure comfort. Here it’s you and your pint."

"Shaken, not stirred: cocktails in a gentleman's club A classic Manhattan - paired with a hot dog? You heard that right. Granted, these are gourmet hot dogs. But only the bold and imaginative Fede Cuco, one of the city's premiere bartenders (considered something of a celebrity barman, even, on the local food and drink scene) would dream of pulling it off. But pull it off he does - and quite well, at that. Verne Club, a gentleman's club-style cocktail lounge inspired by Jules Verne, is one of Palermo's newest hot spots for pre-dinner aperitifs or late-night drinks. Sink into a plush leather armchair and try Cuco's Negroni sbagliato - and a hot dog, too, of course."

"Glowing Candles & Cold Beer in a Classic Corner Cafe It's true: picturesque old corner cafes are practically a dime a dozen in the bohemian barrio of San Telmo. But Bar Seddon, distinguished by the city as one of the bares notables (notable historic bars) of Buenos Aires , has a few things going for it. First, there's the location. The bar is situated at the intersection of Defensa and Chile , smack dab in the center of Sunday's street fair, when the main drag is closed to traffic. Even on a regular evening, the central location and huge windows opening to the busy sidewalks allow for prime people-watching opportunities. Then there's the interior itself. Hanging lanterns and dripping yellow candles cast a romantic glow across old sculptures, rustic wooden tables and tiled black and white floors, cold beer is served in icy glass mugs, a few neighborhood guys sit at the central wooden bar, with couples, families and groups of friends taking the tables around the periphery. The food is nothing special; just come for a drink and a little San Telmo atmosphere."

"Belly Up to the Bar in an Old Brothel For a little old-school San Telmo atmosphere, you can’t do much better than this classic corner bar. Dating from 1864, the antique building started out as a pulpería (general store), the seedy center of a gambling ring and even a brothel before it was converted into the popular restaurant and bar it is today. On your way in, check out the antique cash register and the gorgeous vitraux (stained glass) over the long bar: it's no wonder this place has been used as a film set several times over. Then pull up a chair at one of the rustic wooden tables, preferably by the windows for maximum people-watching potential. If it's morning or time for merienda, ask for a cortado with medialunas; otherwise, order an ice-cold chopp (draft beer) and a monster-sized lomito (steak) sandwich."

"Raising a glass to Buenos Aires' early immigrants 'This isn't for everyone,' as the bar's slogan goes, and it's true. (If you're looking for a cold beer, for example, you'll be out of luck at Doppel - this is probably one of the only businesses in all of Buenos Aires where cerveza is pointedly not on the menu.) The name of the game here is vermouth - the spirit of choice of the early Spanish and Italian immigrants who settled in Buenos Aires. With a serious list of martinis and classic cocktails, a slightly out-of-the-way location on the southern fringes of San Telmo, an emerald-green interior illuminated by glowing lamps, and a cool, quiet clientele, Doppelganger is a dream for travelers intent on imbibing a traditional porteño libation."

"Feel like a million bucks, frozen mojito in hand Even if you're not a Spanish speaker, you can put two and two together: Milion means 'million.' It's not clear, in this case, exactly what the name refers to - it could be the fact that you tend to feel feel like a million dollars when you're standing on the grand outdoor staircase of this restored mansion, sipping a vibrant emerald-hued frozen mojito from a larger-than-life glass goblet and looking down at the glittering lights and beautiful people in the leafy courtyard below. Or the number 'million' could be a tongue-in-cheek reference to the number of people crowding around the bar after a certain hour on weekend nights, or jockeying for seats on the terrace, or standing in line to use one of the building's few antique bathrooms. Either way, Milion is a must-see in Recoleta, especially in summer, when the space is one of the city's loveliest venues for cocktails. When you're finished with that mojito, ask for the frozen basil daiquiri. You can thank me later."

"The Doors Are Open (Come In For a Drink, or Three) Maybe you've heard of Buenos Aires ' restaurantes a las puertas cerradas (closed-door restaurants) - but a closed-door bar? That's how 878 started out: an unmarked door on a quiet residential street in the Villa Crespo neighborhood, a speakeasy-style atmosphere, perfectly mixed cocktails and no publicity other than word of mouth. Times have changed since the bar's early days. Villa Crespo has bloomed into one of the city's coolest locales for dining and drinking - and so many porteños found out about 878 that keeping the place underground became almost impossible. The important details remain the same, though: the sultry, low-lit ambiance, the classic cocktails, the serious hipster bartenders in old-fashioned vests and ties, a good-looking crowd seated along the bar or at wooden tables. The door is easier to find these days - but the bar's name, 878, denotes the bar's street number, reminding you of a time when the clientele had to try a little harder to get here."

"A Cup of Tea at the Alvear Palace Don't let the 'Afternoon Tea' title fool you: at the Alvear Palace's lavish service, you'll be having far more than a cup of Earl Grey. Guests are pleasantly stuffed here, in fact, with beautiful little cakes, homemade scones, tiny tea sandwiches, and elegant Kir Royales, and treated to classy tableside service, silver cart and all. This afternoon tea is a meal in itself, and an opportunity to experience some of the old-fashioned glamour of Avenida Alvear and its signature luxury hotel. Make reservations - and for the best table, ask for a seat in the covered garden patio."

"Coffee and Tea, Turn-of-the-Century Style On weekends, the line to get into Las Violetas stretches halfway around the block. (A little much, you say, in a city that's filled with lovely cafes?) No, in fact, the locals know what they're doing. This gem of a corner cafe may be the most beautiful in the entire city, and coming here for weekend breakfast or afternoon tea is a proud tradition. Once you do have a seat—it's much easier to pull off on a weekday—admire the stained-glass windows and old brass fixtures, and the prim and proper porteño couples of a certain age, out for their daily merienda. You're off the tourist track here, in a barrio with few other attractions for travelers, so catching a glimpse of the neighborhood's residents is part of the fun. On the way out, stop in the chocolate shop, located in one corner of the huge cafe, for a little souvenir to take home. But who are we kidding, those chocolates aren't going to make it much further than your hotel room."

"A post-theatre coffee at Petit Colón Teatro Colón, considered one of the most beautiful opera houses in the world, is a must-see for architecture fans and ballet enthusiasts alike. Around the corner is Petit Colón, one of the city's most elegant cafés — and a perfect spot to stop for cappuccino and cake, or a glass of champagne, before or after the curtain call. Choose a table by the window for optimal people-watching opportunities of the theatre crowd passing by."

"Cappuccino at Cortázar's favorite café Buenos Aires is filled with historic bars and cafés, but London City, recently reopened after significant restorations, is worth seeking out for two reasons: its literary pedigree and its fantastic location. The café was the particular favorite of one of Argentina's great writers, Julio Cortázar, who wrote his novel Los premios (1960) while seated here. Today, the outward-facing sidewalk tables on Avenida de Mayo are a perfect place to stop for coffee (or a glass of wine) and watch the world go by."

"A Bar That Never Closes (Or So They Say) Perched on the northern (and safer) edge of Parque Lezama, a leafy green park that separates tourist-friendly San Telmo with the meaner streets of La Boca, Bar Británico is the real deal - a no-frills corner bar with a long history in the neighborhood. The bar is supposedly open 24 hours a day, meaning it's fit for any time you happen to be in the barrio: cortados and medialunas for breakfast, hearty meat and potatoes at lunch, cake and tea in the afternoon, a glass of the house wine anytime. This isn't gourmet fare, mind you, but real food - with prices, and satisfyingly gruff service - to match."

"A Classy Downtown Happy Hour There's a certain formality to the New Brighton: an elegantly dressed attendant opens the door for you, a gentleman in a tuxedo plays the baby grand in the back, the wood bar has been polished so much that you can practically see your own reflection in the grain. Maybe that's why this classic downtown cafe - another of the city's bares notables (notable historic bars) mostly attracts a distinguished older set. Nevermind - it's part of the ambiance. You can seek out a more youthful crowd later. Come to the New Brighton for a late happy hour or a pre-theater cocktail - served with a complimentary tray of small delicacies - and breathe in the old-world Buenos Aires atmosphere."

"Florería Atlántico An observer from the sidewalk might puzzle as groups of people march into this pretty flower store—and don’t emerge shortly with bouquets. The customers are not here for the blossoms but for what lies below. A door at the rear of the shop leads downstairs to a long speakeasy bar and an adjacent line of hard-to-snag tables. Sea monsters and fish scales emerge from the walls, and as the name Atlántico suggests, the seafood and old-school-aperitif recipes that European immigrants brought to Argentina when they crossed the eponymous pond are the inspiration behind cuisine and cocktails alike. The Spanish-style pulpo (octopus) or the jumbo prawns draw raves; reserve for dinner to avoid a likely wait. Or wedge into the bar to enjoy the innovative, much-ballyhooed mixology. By Travesías"

"Service by sommeliers For serious wine enthusiasts, this is the closed-door dining experience of choice. On Wednesday through Saturday at at Casa Coupage, a pair of sommeliers serve a seasonal tasting menu with wine pairings to nine tables inside their elegant Palermo apartment. In this intimate environment, dinner doubles as an informal wine course - the sommelier talks you through everything you taste, discussing the grape, terroir and winemaker, answering your questions, even helping you choose a few bottles to take home with you."

"Watch real-life tango at a milonga There are two ways to see tango in Buenos Aires : at a glitzy made-for-tourists tango show (which is, to be fair, a good time in its own right) or at a milonga, or tango club. One of the best, El Niño Bien, well off the tourist circuit at the Centro Región Leonesa, closed its doors in 2013, though local tango enthusiasts hope for a reopening of the legendary venue. In the meantime, seek out alternatives like La Catedral, El Beso, or the milonga at La Confitería Ideal, by checking the online schedule called 'Hoy Milonga.' Even if you don't dance, you can sit at a table on the side of the dance floor, order a bottle of wine, and watch the locals in action — but be prepared for the fact that you'll almost certainly be asked to dance at some point in the evening."

"Founded in 1982 by local poet Rubén Derlis, this café once served as a meeting place for writers, artists, and left-leaning thinkers anxious to speak freely after years of fear and oppression under Argentina’s late-’70s military dictatorships. Order the picada , a charcuterie and cheese sampler; lubricate with a traditional local-favorite drink like a Fernet-and-Coke or a Cynar, the tangy artichoke liqueur mixed with pomelo, a sour, grapefruit-flavored soda. Wood paneling and exposed brick, walls covered in photographs, and shelves packed with antique objets make La Poesía an inviting space to linger over a book from the lending library or listen to the live tango music played on Tuesday and Thursday nights. By Travesías"

"More than a local institution dating back to the 1850s, the Café Tortoni ranks among the world’s most famous salons. As vintage photos here show, the columned establishment has hosted more literary figures than you can count. Play billiards while you enjoy a latte, or order from the full restaurant menu."