The Essential Guide to Poland’s Baltic Coast and Pomerania

@afar
 on 2022.02.03
Multiple locations
15 Places
@afar
Poland's Baltic coastline spans nearly 480 miles, with Gdańsk at its center. The area, along with the adjacent Pomerania region, holds many treasures, including the imposing Malbork Castle, the lovely town of Toruń (famous for its gingerbread and Gothic architecture), and, on the far western edge, the new, beautifully sculpted Philharmonic Hall Szczecin. If you only have time to visit Gdańsk, be sure to see Długi Targ (the Long Market), the European Solidarity Center, and Oliwa Cathedral with its famous pipe organ. Credit: Collected by Dorota Wąsik, AFAR Local Expert

Long Market

Tourist attraction · Gdansk

"At just over 540 yards, Długi Targ, which translates to “the Long Market,” isn’t really all that lengthy. Still, it makes for a lovely walk, stretching from the Green Gate at its eastern entrance through the medieval city of Gdańsk to the Golden Gate at its western end. Lined with cafés, restaurants, and souvenir shops worth a stop, the route is also home to picturesque architecture, including historic tenement houses that were renovated after World War II. Be sure to stop at the elaborate 17th-century Neptune Fountain (which represents Gdańsk’s ties to the sea) and, just behind it, the 15th-century Artus Court (a medieval hall fantastically decorated with hunting trophies and models of tall ships hung from the ceiling). A tiny detour down Kramarska Lane behind Artus Court will take you to St. Mary’s, the largest brick church in the world. In this enormous space, which can accommodate as many as 25,000 people, you’ll find a 500-year-old, 25-foot-high astronomical clock, as well as several Baroque statues of angels playing musical instruments. If you’re not afraid of heights, consider climbing the 409 steps to the top of the church tower."

Photo courtesy of Visit Gdansk

"Inaugurated in 2014, the European Solidarity Center is much more than a museum. While it does feature an excellent exhibition about the Solidarity movement, the center mostly works to nurture democracy, open society, and dialogue between citizens, regularly organizing conferences and educational programs. It also features an impressive library and serves as the home base for several NGOs. Before going inside, stop at the Monument to Fallen Shipyard Workers, which features tall crosses commemorating the strikers killed by military police and soldiers in December 1970. After taking it all in, enter the building via the historic Gate No. 2—the same fence that Lech Wałęsa famously jumped over during the 1980 strikes, leading to the signing of the Gdańsk Accords and political and economic upheaval in Poland. This event and more are detailed in the center’s main exhibition, which encourages visitors to think and participate. Once you’ve walked through the entire thing, go upstairs to the rooftop observation deck, from which you can enjoy panoramic views of the former Lenin Shipyards as well as Gdańsk’s Old Town."

Photo by Ann Priestly

Katedra Oliwska

Catholic church · Gdansk

"Northwest of the Old Town in the Gdańsk-Oliwa district stands a magnificent cathedral founded in the 13th century by Cistercian monks. Go inside and you’ll discover the world-famous Rococo organ, designed by Johann Wilhelm Wuff (also known as Brother Michael), constructed from 1763 to 1788 and further improved upon by organ masters over the next several centuries. Today it includes 96 registers, more than 6,000 pipes, five manuals, a pedal, and, when a special mechanism is activated, gilded wooden angels that ring bells and blow trumpets. Decorated with a wooden star climbing toward a wooden sky, it’s a spectacle to behold. Stick around for a demonstration, given several times a day to immerse cathedral visitors in the organ’s deep, clear sound."

Photo courtesy of Visit Gdansk

Pierogarnia Mandu Gdańsk Oliwa

Dumpling restaurant · Gdansk

"A short walk from Oliwa Cathedral lies the veritable pierogi paradise Mandu. Pierogi are a sacred part of Polish cuisine—a simple dish that everyone remembers from childhood, usually with a hint of nostalgia—and Mandu respects that tradition while also devising new, creative variations. In addition to classics like minced beef with onion and bacon, Mandu serves international versions such as spicy, deep-fried Korean dumplings with pork, tofu, kimchi, ginger, and leeks. Everything here is made fresh to order, meaning you might have to wait during busy times. Instead of getting impatient, use the few extra minutes to watch the skilled cooks work in the open kitchen."

Photo by Lindsey Shianna/www.hellojetlag.com

Restauracja Mercato

Restaurant · Gdansk

"Located in the Hilton but also open to non-guests, Mercato is the finest restaurant in Gdańsk. Here, chef Paweł Stawicki endeavors to “capture and highlight the multicultural and metropolitan aspects of Gdańsk’s culinary culture,” using local Pomeranian products alongside a few colonial imports. The menu, which changes four times a year, features elaborate takes on traditional recipes, plus a weekly special composed of seasonal ingredients. Perhaps the best choice is to place your fate in the skilled hands of Stawicki and order the six-course tasting menu, which includes signature dishes like cobia tartare, white asparagus cream soup, and veal cheek confit. Named after Via Mercatorum (the ancient trade route that once linked Gdańsk with the south), Mercato is proud of its heritage—a fact that’s readily apparent in the restaurant’s decor. Around the space, you’ll find framed drawings of everything from the broad bean (grown by the Pomeranians since prehistoric times) and the Baltic salmon (once served to noble Gdańsk residents of German origin) to the duck (a favorite fowl of the Polish, Kashubian, and Prussian inhabitants of Pomerania) and the Fagas sheep (brought to Poland from Holland by the Mennonites)."

Photo courtesy of Hilton Hotels & Resorts

La Cucina Ristorante

Italian restaurant · Gdansk

"Ristorante La Cucina A favorite of locals and visitors alike, Ristorante La Cucina offers fine food and even better service. On the menu are authentic pizzas and pastas as well as sophisticated dishes like grilled king prawns and guinea fowl breast, crafted by talented chef Grzegorz Nakrajnik with high-quality, often luxurious ingredients. Offerings change seasonally, but there’s always a blackboard by the bar with a list of specials written in chalk. No matter what you order, be sure to save room for Nakrajnik’s famous desserts, which range from lemon tiramisu with raspberry ice cream to saffron crème caramel with strawberries."

Photo by Kevin Horn/twentystar

Hilton Gdansk

Hotel · Gdansk

"Simply unbeatable for its location and views, the Hilton Gdańsk lies within the Old Town, overlooking the Motława River and the emblematic 15th-century port crane. Its 150 rooms and suites are often fully booked, so advance planning is required for any guests interested in the comfy, serene accommodations with heavenly beds. In addition to a friendly, courteous staff, the hotel features a wellness facility and two bars, all of which are on the top floors for the best views in town. Also worth noting is the hotel’s award-winning Mercato, one of the best restaurants in Poland and well worth a splurge."

Photo courtesy of Hilton Hotels and Resorts

Hotel Number One

Hotel · Gdansk

"Launched in 2017, this pleasant hotel offers excellent value for your money, including a variety of comforts above its three-star designation. Guests can look forward to a swimming pool, fitness center, and spa, as well as contemporary rooms and a convenient location (just over 500 yards from Długi Targ but removed from the crowds in the Old Town). Popular with everyone from businesspeople to vacationing families to international tourists, the hotel also offers an easygoing atmosphere and multilingual receptionists who are always on hand to help."

Photo courtesy of Hotel Number One

Pier in Sopot

Pier · Sopot

"Sopot is one of Poland’s favorite leisure destinations, and Sopot Pier (Molo w Sopocie in Polish) is its center. An extension of lively Monte Cassino Street—Sopot’s entertainment, dining, and shopping promenade—the pier stretches over a third of a mile into the Bay of Gdańsk. Built in 1827 as part of the local harbor, it was reconstructed after the wars and renovated several times since, gradually becoming the fashionable leisure facility it is today. Since the very beginning, the pier has featured an international dimension—it was conceived by a Frenchman on Polish land belonging to the Kingdom of Prussia; became a popular destination for Europeans during the 19th and 20th centuries, thanks to railway and sea links; and continues to draw travelers from all over the world. When visiting today, you’ll hear several different languages being spoken, and see flags from various countries on the yachts moored on the side deck, which serves as the marina."

Photo by Nahlik/ shutterstock

Bar Przystań

Fish restaurant · Sopot

"A local favorite since the 1990s, Bar Przystań is a straightforward fish-and-chips joint located right on the beach in Sopot. It’s always crowded, especially on weekends, with hungry visitors lining up to order cold beers, fisherman’s soup, and fried fillets of Baltic herring, flounder, cod, and more. After placing your order, you’ll receive an alarm tile that will buzz when your food is ready. At that point, head up to the counter, collect your meal, and make a beeline for the sand, then eat under the sun."

Photo courtesy of Bar Przystań

Muzeum Piernika

Museum · Toruń

"In the heart of Toruń’s Gothic, brown-brick Old Town—which itself looks like it was built out of gingerbread—lies the Living Museum of Gingerbread, an interactive museum that opened in 2006. Toruń’s gingerbread tradition goes back much further, however, with the first mention of the sweet dating to 1380. At the museum, you’ll learn the story of Toruń’s famous gingerbread while working under the watchful eye of the Gingerbread Master to prepare the dough, bake the bread in traditional wooden molds, and, finally, decorate each loaf. After going through the fun process, you might agree with Frédéric Chopin, who wrote of a visit to Toruń, “Gingerbread impressed me most. Although I have seen the fortifications, and the famous town hall . . . all these cannot surpass the gingerbread, ah, the gingerbread!”"

Photo by Dziorek Rafal/ shutterstock

"The charming Róże i Zen (Roses and Zen) is a café-restaurant, located between two neighboring buildings on a somewhat-secret garden patio that can only be described as magical. In this enchanted setting, guests sit comfortably and take their time, whether in the company of friends, chatting with colleagues, or enjoying a romantic date. Beyond its atmosphere, Róże i Zen is known for its short but delicious menu, filled with freshly made dishes and desserts like homemade pastries and cakes. Whatever you choose, pair it with something from the extensive coffee and tea selection."

Photo courtesy of Róże i Zen

"Toruń Copernicus Hotel Named after astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus, who was born in Toruń in 1473, the Toruń Copernicus Hotel slightly resembles a spaceship. Rooms are modern yet comfortable, and surprisingly spacious, while daily breakfasts are excellent, with fresh, high-quality products and delicious coffee. Guests can also look forward to a range of amenities, from the gourmet Salt restaurant (open on weekends) to a swimming pool, spa, salon, and even bowling alley. Just outside the hotel, a waterfront path runs along the Vistula River, offering the perfect place to stroll or jog each morning. The hotel is also just a short walk across a park to the lovely Old Town, making it the ideal base for experiencing Toruń’s many charms."

Photo courtesy of Toruń Copernicus Hotel

Malbork Castle

Castle · Malbork

"When approaching the quiet town of Malbork, whether by road or rail, you’ll catch a glimpse of the towering, orange-red Malbork Castle—one of the most impressive strongholds of the Middle Ages and a designated UNESCO World Heritage site. For the best view, however, continue on to the banks of the Nogat River, where you can see the solid brick structure reflecting in the clear-blue water. The fortress was built by the Order of the Teutonic Knights, who settled in Malbork in an effort to establish their own state on the surrounding lands. They named the area Marienburg, which later became Malbork, to honor Mary, the mother of Jesus. After the second Treaty of Toruń in 1466, which ended the 13-year war between the knights and the Poles, the castle passed into Polish hands and, for the next three centuries, served as the royal residence for Polish kings during their annual visits to Pomerania. It was half-destroyed during World War II but restored to its former glory after an extensive renovation. Today, it remains the largest brick castle in Europe. The fortress is a repository of myths and legends, making a guided tour particularly interesting. You can easily visit the castle on a day trip from Gdańsk, but there’s a hotel on the grounds should you want to spend the night and try to spot some of the resident ghosts."

Photo by Dan

Karlowicz Philharmonic

Philharmonic hall · Szczecin

"In 2014, Szczecin, a pleasant seaport town in western Pomerania, received a very welcome addition: the new Philharmonic Hall. Now the unofficial symbol of the city, the magnificent building appears to be built of light. Barcelona -based design firm Barozzi Veiga constructed the building on the exact site of the 19th-century Konzerthaus (which was destroyed by Allied forces during World War II), helping to resurrect Szczecin’s musical spirit. Bright and daring, the award-winning structure is still rooted in a neo-Gothic context, with beautiful interiors and flawless acoustics. In addition to the Szczecin Symphony Orchestra, the Philharmonic hosts a variety of top orchestras, ensembles, and bands throughout the year, as well as numerous festivals, competitions, workshops, and educational programs for children. When visiting Szczecin, the building is an absolute must-see—in fact, people have been known to travel specifically for the purpose of visiting the Philharmonic. Time your trip to a concert, or simply take one of the regular tours of the building."

Photo by Piotr Krajewski Photography