Randy S.
Yelp
Tokyo, Meguro. November 2022
In the fast pace of Tokyo, sometimes you need to force yourself to slow down. A tranquil slow paced zen like asa gohan can be the perfect step back - if you let it.
Shinichiro Ogata is a Tokyo based international architect, designer, restauranteur, and chef. He has taken a mansion in a residential Meguro street and converted it into a peaceful welcoming nihon ryori repast. Breakfast and lunch sets are available, by reservation. Previously, dinner could not be reserved. It was presented on an invitation only basis - the reopening of Japan after a long closure has led Yakumo Saryo to experiemnt with dinner reservations.
The breakfast, called asa-cha, is an eye opening opportunity to experience a lifestyle that even Tokyoites have not tried. The grounds open at 9:00am. You are invited to be seated promptly at 9:15am.
First of all, put away your smartphone. There is no mention on its website but, except for outside, photography is kindly declined. Taking photos, posing your food, scanning the web, all distract you from the unique setting. And, save the idle conversation for afterwards. Is it that important to hear yourself talk?
Second, consider not eating or drinking anything before you arrive. Your body will be in low energy mode. You'll start your morning in a similar way of buddhist priests.
Asa-cha starts with a small taste of a warm amazake. The rice used for making nihonshu is barely fermented allowing for a thick milky drink with almost or no alcohol. This instantly warms and wakes your body up. Next, a tea blend is prepared - this tea also had slices of fresh persimmon added. The tea is prepared for each guest or group of guests with a presentation of the tea leaves and a slow deliberate steep. The wait can lull into wanting to close your eyes but you start to appreciate the way ritual slows your body and gives your a chance to breathe and open your senses.
The food also comes ritually slowly. You are given a flat bowl of omo-yu - the liquid only, on top of the rice porridge. This is followed by a thin porridge accompanied by dashi tamago, grilled dried sardines, some tdukudani/seasoned chirimen/shio kombu squares, and an umeboshi. You get sweet, salty, sour and your body gets happy. Then, a thicker porridge is presented, with tsukemono, like nukazuke daikon, komatsuna, kabocha, kabu, and aka miso paste to add wherever you like. An aka/shiro miso with nameko mushrooms and fresh tofu completes the main part of asa-cha.
After you are done you are given warm hojicha.
For the end, you are presented with the daily selection of wagashi and asked to choose one only. Then a bowl of matcha is ceremoniously whisked, individually for each guest, to savor.
When you are finished, a cup of warm water is offered to cleanse your palate after asa-cha. You are done, although you are invited to linger to look at the vessels, tea, and wagashi used for asa-cha. All are for sale. Otherwise, it is closer to mid-day and are left with a sense that you had a full relaxed morning in Tokyo - something not enough people take the time to enjoy.