The Jaffa, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Tel Aviv

"South of Tel Aviv, the ancient port city of Jaffa has been enjoying a rebirth, embodied by the five-year-old hotel that bears its name. British architect John Pawson preserved many 19th-century details at The Jaffa, like stained glass windows and intricate moldings—which you can now contemplate from one of Pierre Paulin's Oyster chairs."

"Set the scene. A 13th-century fortress wall, excavated during construction, cuts through The Jaffa’s slick modern lobby. Furniture is mid-century modern; on the wall is one of Damien Hirst’s spin paintings. But this hardly prepares you for the rest of The Jaffa, a one-time convent-hospital could claim to be the world’s most glamorous nunnery; all grand archways, plaster walls, and neo-Roman flourishes, but with modern flourishes. The Chapel, where nuns once worshipped, is now a grand setting for Tel Aviv’s coolest bar, with its soaring vaulted ceilings and stained-glass windows. What’s the story? When it was built in the 19th century, Jaffa’s iconic French Hospital was a mix of neo-gothic and neo-Renaissance styles. Now, it’s clearly symbolic of neo-Jaffa, the city’s ancient Arabic district, which grows ever-more hip. The renovation took 10 years of excavation and preservation, overseen by British designer John Pawson and Israeli architect Ramy Gill. They’ve stayed true to the ornate old space, with its Arabic and Roman influences, while turning it into a 120-room hotel filled with mod-cons and cutting-edge art and design, from Hirst to Japanese furniture designer Shiro Kuramata. What can we expect from the bedrooms? Rooms are convent-minimal, but stylishly so; the chilly plaster walls and arches offset by chairs by French designer Pierre Paulin. A single panel controls the blinds, lights, and air-conditioning, and there’s just a shower in the Travertine marble bathroom. The minimalism is accented by minimal photographs of trees by Israeli artist Tal Shochat. How about the food and drink? For somewhere so of its place and time, the food leans heavily towards New York City, despite being run by local chef Roi Antebi. Brooklyn-ish all-day deli Golda’s serves up bagels and lox, and great coffee. Anything to say about the service? Could be improved, but will warm up. The concierge is an authority on genuine cool bars and galleries in Jaffa. What type of person stays here? The in-the-know global design crowd (who are the people attracted to Jaffa in the first place). Lots of elegantly maxi-dressed women and men with bare ankles and tortoiseshell glasses. What’s the neighborhood scene like? Hip, rapidly gentrifying areas in cities tend to be in formerly unloveable areas: red-light districts, boondocks, actual docks. Jaffa is a hip quarter, but a beautiful one that has a 4,000-year history stretching back beyond The Bible (Jonah, St Peter) and Greek mythology (Perseus, Andromeda), with more Arabic than Jewish residents. The art galleries, boho bars, and chic boutiques are houses in ancient stone structures, which glow with golden light; while the flea markets and Arabic cafés and bakeries are as they’ve been for centuries. Anything we missed? The rectangular aquamarine pool pops from the white loungers around it, and the fact that sunscreen is provided is a nice touch. The lobby features sheshbesh boards, the Turkish equivalent of backgammon. Is it worth it—why? Like Jaffa itself, it’s a thrilling mix of old and new, which somehow works." - Devorah Lev-Tov

"Reopened after a year-long closure, offering luxurious accommodations."

"The Jaffa Hotel, located in the historic port town of Jaffa, adjacent to Tel Aviv, blends history with modern luxury, having been designed by acclaimed architect John Pawson."

"The historic Jaffa neighborhood has become a cachet of Tel Aviv cool, loaded with designer boutiques, cocktail bars, and creative locals inside its 4,000-year-old walls. It’s appropriate, then, that the hotel that shares its name should act as a microcosm of the area. Star architect John Pawson and his team spent 10 years creating an aesthetic within this former convent-turned-hospital that played to Jaffa’s old/new dichotomy. In the lobby, remains of a 13th-century crusader’s fortress discovered during the hotel’s excavation are displayed alongside two Damien Hirst paintings, twin George Condo busts, and bespoke backgammon tables designed by Pawson himself. Stained-glass windows and checkered floors create a bar space that is both biblical and current—especially when beautiful Tel Avivians are sipping Negronis on the brown suede Cini Boeri Botolo chairs. In a city with a spectacular homegrown food scene, The Jaffa made a bold move placing New York’s Major Food Group in the kitchen. The rigatoni alla Norma and grilled octopus recall its Manhattan hotspot Carbone. But the way these dishes showcase the vibrancy of local produce, meat and fish means Israel remains the star. In a city that everyone’s talking about right now, this hotel has made the conversation even more interesting." - CNT Editors