Kim S.
Yelp
Epocha is located opposite Carlton Gardens in a lovely old terrace; reminiscent of Hell of the North but with a better outlook. It was one of those perfect Melbourne autumn days - on the warm side of cool - so I asked for a table on the little front balcony to take advantage of the view of the park with glimpses of the Exhibition Building through the trees.
I've been meaning to try the degustation here for a while now but the first time I booked myself in was a Sunday when they only serve roast, and the second time a few weeks ago was the tail end of the Food & Wine Festival so they were just offering an Express menu. Today, fortunately, the old adage "third time's a charm" actually held true.
There are two sharing menu options for $68 and $80 respectively. I chose the $80 version which gives you a choice of duck or beef for main as opposed to chicken or fish. For a further $55 you can also match wines, which of course I did ;). My very friendly waiter seated me and returned a couple of minutes later with a bottle of Super Bock Portuguese lager and a little loaf of black bread tied in a muslin sack.
The sommelier arrived soon after, bearing generous slurps of Madeira (which he suggested would go well with the bread) and a German Trocken Riesling called 50 degrees (made by Mumm) to go with my first course; a little breadboard of snacks. These consisted of a bowl of mixed olives, crudite with white anchovy creme Fraiche, a dollop of Austrian Liptauer cheese on a rye cracker, and some chickpea fritters with red pepper Mayo. Olives are olives so no surprises there, the slightly fishy creme Fraiche worked very well with the raw vegetables, and the red pepper Mayo saved the fritters from blandness. The soft, slightly spicy cheese was the pick of the four for me.
Two salads were next; beetroot with pecan brittle and a sweet, whipped goats curd, and baked baby carrots with candied walnuts and almonds. I was a little bit sceptical about having two salad courses included in the menu, but both of these were really, really good. Interesting flavour combinations - particularly the beetroot and goat curd which worked a treat. And I could have eaten a bowl of the candied walnuts which were sugary, but beautifully balanced with a savoury finish. Both plates had a lot of sweetness, and matching them with a dry, slightly bitter Malagouzia from Greece was an excellent choice. My prior experience with Greek wine has been largely limited to cheap Retsina, but I actually quite liked this drop.
The first of the "large plates" was next; Spanish mackerel in a red pepper sauce with potato dumpling. The fish was qufirm, tasty and salty and the thin, slightly spicy sauce complemented it well. It was topped with peppers coped with paprika. The wine match for this was a liminona, also from Greece, and was a little like a Rose version of the Malagouzia I just had.
For the last course I chose the duck confit with pickled plums. This comprised two slices of duck breast and a confit leg. The breast was a little tough and would have been better served with a steak knife, and the plum a bit overpowering for my taste, but the meat was tasty and the sauce made from the meat drippings was great. This came with two French wines - a Closier Pinot and a Plan Pegau Grenache, both of which were quite nice.
Dessert followed, which I negotiated to replace with a couple of choices from the cheese trolley; a piece of Ossau-Iraty and a nice, creamy Clarines. This came with a delicious sweet wine from the island of Stamos (if you haven't guessed already the owners of this fine establishment are Greek). Great finish to a long and enjoyable lunch.
Epocha was worth the wait. Lovely setting, good food, generous servings and excellent service. And I may even be getting a taste for Greek wine...