Gary I.
Yelp
Sushi Yotsuya (yoh tsoo yah) has a very traditional Edomaè (eh doh mah eh) style which means that there will probably be no "fusion rolls" which combine fish whose flavours or textures clash & then are doused with unctuous mayonnaise, tons of Sriracha or cloyingly sweet "eel sauce". If this kind of LA County fair-like food pleases your palate, save your money & don't go to Yotsuya.
I did the Omakasè (oh mah kah seh), but had a limited time of 1 1/2 hours so, I didn't do Sushi Yotsuya justice by staying till the last crowning dish. Chef Masa suggested having first "otsumami" (oh tsoo mah mee) which is anything to eat w/ Sake (sah keh) or alcohol.
1) Hotaru Ika were small squid about 3 inches long, probably steamed w/ a Sumiso (soo mee soh) Sauce which is a combination of Miso paste, sugar, Japanese rice vinegar & lends earthy, fermented sweet Umami along w/ gastrique to enliven the subtle squid flavor.
2) Red Abalone was served raw sliced in its own shell. The al dente textured meat was trimmed w/ black edging & had a natural slipperiness & touch of sweet ocean minerality. Part II was the flame seared soft, bitter liver & parts of the abalone.
3) Shigoku Oysters in Ponzu (pohn zoo) Sauce. Raw oysters tasted of ocean brine & the supple meat had a velvety thick texture that was enlivened by the citrus juice in the Ponzu sauce.
4) Ankimo was revelatory. I was used to eating the ready-made Ankimo that is sausage shaped & wrapped in clear cellophane plastic. Many times this kind of Ankimo "torchon" was dense, heavy, & smelled old & fishy.
Ankimo served here is the liver itself in its natural shape. Texture reminded me of grilled foie gras de canard w/ a similar light liver taste. Color of the Ankimo & foie gras were also similar w/ light beige brushed a meaty rosy pink.
Sweet Sumiso accompanied the Ankimo just as a glass of sweet Haute Sauterne would accompany foie gras.
Sushi came out "Ikkan"/one at a time. There were so many that I can not remember all except for the highlights.
5) Maguro was aged which gave it a buttery, meaty texture. Flavour is similar to aged beef where you can taste a bit of iron from the blood.
6) Toro is aged for a gamier edge. The fattiness melted in the mouth, but a more primal taste of meat lingered on the tongue.
7) Sawara/needlefish has the most translucent beautiful flesh w/ bright fine silver scales. Chef Masa took advantage of this, & put a sheet of bright spring green Shiso/Japanese basil under the translucent Sawara to create a truly elegant looking Sushi which is translucent w/ glowing green underneath & a shining silver streak on top. Sawara is very delicate in taste. Use of Sho-yu/soy sauce would be a sacrilege.
8) Kurodai/sea bream is white, slightly chewy w/ clean, light sea flavour.
9) Akadai/red sea bream had sweet meaty sea kissed Umami w/ Iki/ liveliness, vivacity.
10) Kamasu/barracuda is white, dense, meaty. Slightly sweet & dressed w/ lemon zest & finely julienned dried red chile.
11) Aoyagi/surf clam is wonderful w/ fleshy soft yet al dente texture & sweet briny flavour that lingers.
12) Hirame/halibut was a neutral flavoured fish that for me was more about soft, velvety texture.
13) Tai/red snapper was soft pliable meat & sweet sea brine came together for the ideal Umami.
14) Ika/squid was pristinely white, slightly rubbery, but firm. Yuzu Kosho-/Japanese lime zest & green chile paste dressed the mild Ika w/ piquant citrus gastrique.
15) Saba/chub mackerel was marinated in Japanese rice vinegar to firm up the meat & to take the edge off of its soft textured, oily, meaty fishiness.
16) Uni/sea urchin had a belt of Nori/black seaweed paper around the circumference of the Sushi rice to hold in the layers of Uni, the eggs of the sea urchin. Texture is like Italian panna cotta w/ a briny, foie gras Umami.
17) Ikura/salmon eggs seemed to be marinated in Sho-yu Dashi/broth in the exact same Sushi form as the Uni. Eggs would burst to release an oily, fishy Umami.
1-17a) Ryo- Sake (sah keh) came in a pretty aquamarine bottle shaped in a free form wedge. Smooth neutral, mildly sweet flavour that had enough astringency to clear the palate without leaving an aftertaste.
Chef Masa knows his fish. He leans toward more mature, full meaty aged flavour in his darker fleshed fish which may not agree w/ people who always insist on fish being "fresh" when aging improves the taste of many fish.
Upon entering Yotsuya, come w/ an open mind & make partaking of the sumptuous fish from Chef Masa as an education in Sushi. Take time to savour & analyze.
Because of his sophisticated style, many of the customers attracted to Yotsuya are culinary cognoscenti as well as being culturally conversant & knowledgeable. The interior of Yotsuya may be austere, but the customers w/ their higher caliber presence made up for it. 5 Yelp stars for an education in Edomaè Sushi.