Steph C.
Yelp
I figured there might be good ramen at Tokyo Station, but "good ramen" is, as it turns out, a ridiculous understatement. The station is home to Tokyo Ramen Street, a row of small outposts of some of the city's most popular ramen joints, conveniently gathered for the 500,000 or so people going through the station every day. Rokurinsha is the most popular among them--if you're planning a visit, make sure to budget time for a long wait in line.
I wanted to eat here on our way out of Tokyo, and I figured I'd show up before 11:00, when I thought it opened, to avoid a long wait. I was wrong about the hours, as it turned out. The shop was already full with a line formed outside by the time I got there at 10:45. It wasn't a long wait, though, only about fifteen minutes. Tokyo Station is a pretty happening place, so even standing in line didn't feel like wasted time.
Rokurinsha is a tight operation. The woman running the line seemed like a real pro, sharp and gently efficient. It moved fast--this is not a restaurant where you linger and chat once you're done eating--and pretty soon, it was my turn at the vending machine. I needed a little help figuring it out (you have to put in your money before it allows you to make a selection) and the line woman was on it, kindly setting me straight in a two-second interaction that kept things moving.
I sat alone with my luggage, a common sight here, at a table that could have sat two. I'd sent my husband, a weirdo who doesn't eat ramen but does love getting his steps, to wander around the station, but the line woman said it was fine if he wanted to sit without eating. I guess I had too much stuff to fit at the counter anyway. I decided I was better off eating fast and clearing out. My food came out within a couple minutes and I tucked in without delay.
Rokurinsha is known for its tsukemen. In fact, it's responsible for popularizing tsukemen over the last couple of decades, which means I have to thank this place for paving the way for my favorite ramen place back home, a tsukemen joint called Tsujita.
I ordered the tokusei tsukemen, or special dip noodles, for ¥1060, or about $7. I would pay ten times that much to have this exact lunch again right now. It came in two bowls, one with the noodles and ajitama, the other with the broth and the rest of the toppings--chashu, shredded pork, bamboo, seaweed, scallions, dried fish powder, and a naruto. This was truly amazing ramen. The noodles were beautifully thick and springy, the toppings all just right. The broth was unbelievably delicious, dense and creamy and flavorful, made with pork bones, chicken bones, baby sardines, smoked fish, and vegetables. I feel like when you look up umami in the dictionary, you should find a picture of this broth. The little bath bomb of dried fish powder really put it over the top.
The thick broth was perfect for dipping, coating the noodles on contact without compromising their fresh, chewy texture. Rich as it was, I would've been happy to slurp it up on its own (and did drink plenty with a spoon with bits of egg and noodles and other toppings). Once the noodles were gone, though, I asked, per house convention, to get the broth thinned out. I added some of the yuzu powder on the table and drank down every last drop of the resulting soup.
I was full, but if you'd put another order of tsukemen in front of me, I would've scarfed it on the spot. There was a Rokurinsha at the Haneda airport on our way out of the country, and if I'd had a plausible amount of time to wait in line and eat, I might have cut things close for that tsukemen. If you're looking for a quick, travel-worthy meal at Tokyo Station or really, anywhere in town, Rokurinsha should be at the top of your list.
