Asuka N.
Yelp
St. Hubertus was one of of our two high-end, Michelin-starred dinners in the Dolomites (with the other being La Sireola). The restaurant is located at the western end of the Rosa Alpina hotel, with a separate entrance making it easy to bring yourself to the dining rooms that feel much like the abodes in this region - lots of wooden walls and frames, as well as simple paintings adorning the walls. It's a very relaxing setting to have a fantastic meal, very much in the spirit of Yoann Conte, a fellow 2-star restaurant in Annecy, France. All of our servers were very nice gentlemen who were quite personable and showed a sense of humor at times - definitely a change from many of the upscale dining experiences I have typically had in Europe, where fine dining can sometimes feel quite formal! But the laid-back atmosphere certainly lends itself to a great attitude amongst the wait staff, and they were on-point with everything - bringing us an extra loaf of sourdough, even giving one of our friends extra ice cream from the kitchen as part of dessert. The wine selection was also excellent, with the recommendation of a mellower, less sweet Gewurtztraminer really working nicely across the entire meal.
For the meal, we ended up going with the menu recalling past and present favorites of the chef, which was definitely the most expensive choice (195 euros a person). It was slightly off-putting that the a la carte menu was not even left at our table, as I had recalled seeing other options on their website, but I did not bother to make a stink about it (mainly because I wanted to do the tasting menu anyways). Everyone starts off with a rising, uncooked loaf of sourdough sitting in the middle of the table under glass that is 'unveiled' (in a manner of speaking), baked, and brought out a couple courses in, and make sure to try it - of course the butter is deliciously farm-fresh and helps, but the quality of the bread is amazing, and the sourdough only had a light sourness to it - not the overpowering kind that you might typically find in the U.S.
The rest of the food, it's safe to say, was impeccable and absolutely delicious. While there are certainly Italian sensibilities present in the food (namely, the risotto and spaghetti dishes), the cuisine is definitively modern European, but in a way that incorporates fresh fruits and vegetables from the region into the meal, turning it into an unpretentious but exquisitely, thoughtfully-prepared meal. We started off with an amuse-bouche of 3 courses: a chip topped with beef tartare (a very rustic preparation, with just the beef alone on a wheat chip), a rice chip topped with a piece of whitefish and onion cream (light, airy, but tasty), and a piece of kohlrabi with finely-shredded prosciutto, retaining the cured flavor of the meat but giving it a much different (and enjoyable) texture). We finished off with a mountain tomato - very muted but rich flavor - in basil-infused sauce and an elderflower-infused granita - to reset the palate. From there, it was on to our 'travel through time', and everything was excellent. The tomatoes stood out here, just as everywhere else in Europe...served in clear tomato juice, this really let the juiciness of the vegetable (fruit?) stand out as a cool, refreshing summer course. The local salad, bathed in a kombucha-infused dressing and topped with crisped amaranth leaves, was one of the best salads I can remember having. The risotto-liked dish (prepared with orzotto) was so creamy thanks to the goat butter used in it - but the lemon verbana gel 'circle' added a bit of crunch and acidity, making it a delightful contrast with each bite. The pigeon breast, served au jus, was perfectly cooked and rich with flavor - and then we got the leg on the next course to gnaw on as well. Dessert may have well been my favorite, though. My first experience in the region with apple strudel was served as a 'cigar' with a touch of fruity dipping sauce...a lighter but still excellent rendition of a traditional dessert. The 'enrosadira', though, was the most tasty - and most visually satisfying dish. In Italian, it is the word describing the reddish glow of the Dolomites as the sun sets, and this dish is blood-red in the best sense - filled with strawberries, raspberry gels and other fruits, doused in strawberry juice and served with a delicious mascarpone ice cream...it was a divine way to 'officially' finish the meal. We were then given an antler's worth (yes, the petit fours were served on deer antlers) of bites to go. While I enjoyed the mostly chocolate selection (the cotton candy was fun), I was quite full at this point.
The ambiance is great, the service is excellent, and the food is fantastic - what more could one ask for? This was one of my most enjoyable high dining experiences anywhere, and especially one of the most memorable in Europe. If you are in the region, there's a lot of great food - but this is a must-visit.
