Max Bolingbroke
Google
To summarize: good-to-excellent cooking, good but not top-tier service, slightly disappointing drinks selection, reasonable but not extraordinary value for money, good decor.
We came for dinner and had the 200 GBP tasting menu which has 14 courses. Some of these courses were extraordinarily good. One highlight was a New York beef pastrami inspired minature "burger" filled with foie gras and a wonderfully tender chunk of beef, coupled with a bun that literally oozed flavour. There were also some extremely delicate seafood offerings: a dish of raw razorclam and brown shrimp was alternately tender, salty and sweet in just the right amounts. An absolutely gorgeous piece of A5 Gunma wagyu was also on offer. Wagyu can be overpoweringly fatty, but this one was tender with just the right balance of fat and slightly crispy "maillard"ed skin. In the desserts section, a poached meringue was soft to the point of being unearthly, and is certainly the best sweet course I've tasted in 2020.
Something particularly unusual about Chef James' food is that he knows how to use a light touch of spice in dishes in a very impactful way. A course of Thai-inspired broth is kicked to the next level with sansho pepper powder, bringing a subtle numbing sensation to the palette, and a just few drops of japaleno on a ceviche added a lot of interest to the dish.
Some courses failed to reach these heights. For me, the squab leg needed something extra: eating the meaty main portion of the thigh was almost a chore without some sauce or salt to pump the flavour up a bit. (Though my wife rated this dish as the favourite course of the night, so this may just be me!). While his attempt at a nigiri was servicable it doesn't compare favourably with what is available at mid-level sushi restaurants. The other Japan-inspired dish, a langoustine tempura, also felt a bit out of place, lacking the essential fluffiness of a good tempura. I also would not have been sad to see the mille feuille replaced with something else. The bread "course" was nice enough but perhaps should be served on the side rather than as its own thing.
Overall, while the cooking was good and I see some unique ideas here which make it well worth a visit, it does fall some way short of perfection.
While the staff were friendly, there were some small errors: we were given incorrect information about the ingredients of a dish at one point (another staff member stepped in to quickly remedy the error), and they once tried to remove a course from the table before we had started eating it!
I tried the classic wine pairing at 115 GBP. All the wines were pleasant but not super memorable. Perhaps you would fare better with the more expensive "prestige" pairing at 295 GBP. We would also have appreciated slightly more choice of drinks: my wife doesn't drink wine but does enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail, but no cocktails are available. They also don't have much choice of spirits.
The decor is quite striking, with a persistent skull motif that is cleverly even reflected in the food: the final course on the tasting menu is a beautiful chocolate skull. Top marks here!