Michael U.
Yelp
When Claude Troisgros arrived in Brazil in 1979 it seems hard to believe he had plans to build an empire, but forty years later the legendary Chef and his son, Thomas, now own six Restaurants plus a catering Atelier, the most famous of which has been called Olympe since 2005.
Originally opened in 1983, then as Restaurant Claude Troisgros before a name change honoring the Chef's late-Mother, it is at Rua Custódio Serrão 62 that guests will find a brick house holding one Michelin Star, the interior dimly let and intimate with staff that exudes professionalism.
Offering both a la carte and tasting menus, the latter carte blanche save for allergies and intolerances, it is immediately upon seating at linen-clad tables that a Wine List is presented, several French bottles at fair prices popular amongst others while the lack of non-alcoholic options and Cocktails was surprising.
Built on Brazilian Ingredients, but steeped in French elegance, it is with Bread service that most tables begin their evening, a duet of crisp Tapioca and cheesy Baguette each delicious with or without imported Butter while a follow-up Amuse of Foie Gras delivered a delicious balance of flavors in one bite.
Drawing inspiration from the main menu, but not replicating any of its plates across seven courses to follow, dish one consisted of hand-cut Wagyu draped in Pork Fat with sweet and savory accoutrements, each bite a little different than that prior, though all were rich in a way that continued on with Butter-poached Slipper Lobster, local Mushrooms and Asparagus.
Undeniably French cooking, though global influences are frequent, course three presented unsealed Ravioli with Potatoes and Yogurt in the middle, the addition of Balsamic and Pine Nuts creating something far greater than thus sum of its parts while Seabass with Beans and Fennel was perfectly cooked but otherwise fairly basic.
Only seating four tables on this particularly rainy evening, service thus hovering at times, it was not long before a 63 Egg was offered beneath Farofa and Cauliflower, a tableside pour of peerless Bordelaise bringing otherwise common Ingredients up a notch just as fermented Manioc Root Juice did a slice of Domestic Ribeye with Pommes Aligot and a Tapioca crisp.
Eschewing Troisgros famous Passionfruit Souffle Pancake for Dessert, a Parfait of Chocolate and Ginger served in its place, dinner came to a conclusion with four Mignardises, the R$475 price not a bad value but overall lacking the excitement of other Michelin-starred South American Restaurants.
