Monaci delle Terre Nere

"While many Sicilian hotels boast breathtaking views of Mount Etna, few can rival this eight-room boutique hotel on the volcano's eastern slope." - The MICHELIN Guide

"Located in the green countryside at the foot of Mount Etna, Monaci delle Terre Nere is a wine resort set on a 60-acre organic estate once tended to by Augustinian monks. The Relais & Châteaux property is one of only three hotels in Sicily to be awarded eco-bio certification. The guest rooms, housed in a 19th-century villa, have a sleek, minimalist feel, with blond wood floors, white walls, and sliding glass doors facing the surrounding countryside." - Erica Firpo, Laura Itzkowitz

"Why book? The first and last thing you’ll notice at Monaci Delle Terre Nere is the way that the air smells like lavender, and a little like ash, from nearby Mount Etna. You'll also experience a great many sights (sweeping views of rolling green hills), flavors (an opulent, garden-forward spread; crispy chunks of Nebrodi pork over pasta), and perhaps most importantly, the feeling of your shoulders falling from around your ears as you settle into this idyllic patch of Sicilian nature.  Set the scene In Zafferana Etnea, a town on the slope of Sicily’s Mount Etna, find peace amongst the many dozens of fruit trees, which bear globes of citrus and fruits covered in peach fuzz for the elegant breakfast spread. Traversing the eco-resort requires you to engage with it, be it a stroll past the groves or a golf cart ride through the vines that bear the grapes you will later drink by the fire in your room as the temperature falls rapidly, the afternoon sun giving way to cool evening air. The blurred boundaries between the land and structures here are intentional; when owner Guido Coffa found the abandoned patch of land—formerly a home to the Augustinian Monks of the 1600s—he knew he’d identified a place where he could conserve and celebrate the surroundings in equal measure. You may see other travelers, on pause from the bustle of the rest of the island, walking to or from the pool; young couples gearing up to hike the mountain; families making use of Monaci’s multi-room villas; individual guests enjoying a few mornings of solitude in the breakfast room. The only constant is Mount Etna, looming off to one side, at times sputtering out smoke, ash, and short bursts of lava. The backstory When Coffa—who spent the first 18 years of his life in Sicily—came across the foothills on which Monaci delle Terre Nere now sits, he was initially looking for a retirement property to keep while he went back to the United States for work. But he knew immediately that the wild, sprawling estate would be worth his full-time dedication and changed course with the hefty restoration required to update its 18th-century central building and build out surrounding villas. Years later, in 2019, it became part of the Relais and Châteaux portfolio.The rooms Monaci delle Terre Nere’s two dozen bedrooms are scattered, as if by the wind, across sloping hillsides, with a lobby and bar located at the base. Interiors strike a balance between upscale chic—with slouching sofas and armchairs upholstered in a lilac linen that references blooms that peek out around the property—and exceedingly minimal, with modern fireplaces and infinity pools. It’s equal parts fancy-boutique and Italian-countryside. Contemporary art and collectible furniture pieces intermingle with ancient lava flows—around which entire suites have been constructed—original oak-beamed ceilings, and stone walls. Rooms start at $550 per night. Food and drink The hotel’s name, in Italian, means “monks of the black sands,” referring to the Augustinian Monks of the 1600s who first settled on Monaci’s rich, dark soil. Hundreds of years later, the land’s production is still peak; everything that comes out of the ground tastes like it was crafted in a lab to maximize flavor and depth. The sprawling breakfast buffet—replete with oversized heads of fennel and citrus grown onsite, organic eggs prepared to order, breads baked with ancient grains, freshly squeezed carrot juice, and cakes dappled with juicy seasonal fruits—will serve as a siren signal of good things ahead to the culinarily minded. At Locanda Nerello, the property’s upscale organic restaurant, cabbage emulsions will come to the table tasting more like cabbage than seems feasible; chunks of Nebrodi pig, crisped to a mahogany brown, will top eggy, cheesy pasta, and local honey will sweeten complex desserts. Stop by Convivium Bar for a craft cocktail also made utilizing the fruits of Monaci’s orchards, or for a glass of velvety Guido Coffa wine. The neighborhood/area Zafferana Etnea is just one of several Etna towns worth exploring, each with a handful of charming dining options that range from rustic to lavish, like Sabir Gourmanderie, a drive down the road from Monaci. Don’t miss Zafferana Etnea’s micro cafe, Etna Roaster. Especially remarkable nearby wineries deserving of a visit include Santa Maria La Nave and I Vigneri. For other exemplary sips, drive up and around the other side of Etna to visit Vino di Anna, Tenuta delle Terre Nere Winery, SRC, and Frank Cornelissen. Zafferana Etnea is also only a forty-minute drive from Catania, so if you happen not to hit the bustling city on your Sicily agenda otherwise, Monaci would serve as an easy jumping off point for a day trip to explore the daily fish market and many, many historical landmarks. The main attraction of the Etna region is, of course, Etna National Park, for which Monaci can arrange guided exploration. The service Service is omnipotent and silent; you can spend 24 hours straight in your detached villa, feeling as though no one alive is peeking in on you, but literally moments after you call the front desk for, say, a bottle opener, it will arrive quietly at your door.Eco effort Monaci Delle Terre Nere aims for seamless integration into its surroundings, with villas and other structures built right into the pre-existing ancient buildings, and restored walls having been erected from natural plaster by local craftsmen. Hardwood floors are made of Etna chestnut, and some 70 percent of the hotel’s energy comes from solar panels. Most of the produce consumed onsite comes from the property’s own farm, with the remainder sourced from neighboring growers; seafood is all local and seasonal. Accessibility Unfortunately, the property is not particularly accessibility friendly; its rooms and villas are scattered around steep hillside. Though mostly reachable by car, none of the rooms meets ADA standards. Anything left to mention? Monaci Delle Terre Nere would be a fabulous site for an intimate wedding buyout." - Ella Quittner

Agri tourismo - a working farm, hotel, restaurant. Produces olive oil. On his last day in Sicily, he had a meal here made from ingredients on the farm: penne with sundried tomatoes and zucchini; a rabbit dish; agridolce greens.