Meju

"Noksu, Atomix, Jua—there are so many Korean fine dining options nowadays. But Meju exists in a category of its own. This eight-seat counter in Long Island City is essentially a one-man show, led by a chef who will talk your head off about Korean fermentation techniques. Consisting of around seven courses, the food is more homey than it is modern, with dishes like an ultra-concentrated doenjang jjigae, and fried seaperch served alongside a dab of 128-year-old soy sauce." - bryan kim, willa moore, neha talreja, molly fitzpatrick

"This Korean tasting menu for $215 — and one star — is tucked in the back of Hooni Kim’s Little Banchan Shop, a Queens provisions store." - Eater Staff

"Little Banchan Shop is to banchan lovers what Graceland is to Elvis fans. And Meju, an eight-person chef's counter hidden inside this neighborhood pantry, is kind of like the Jungle Room. If you already make your own kimchi, you’ll geek out over the $185 tasting menu here, with each course highlighting a different Korean ferment. Otherwise, be warned: Dinner may feel like an initiation ritual, and the chef's enthusiasm for microbes is infectious. If dishes like buttery amberjack with gochujang, or Miyazaki beef topped with small-batch ssamjang don't convert you, your first taste of 128-year-old soy sauce will." - neha talreja, bryan kim, hannah albertine, sonal shah, molly fitzpatrick

"Unlike many other fine dining spots, Meju doesn’t seem to care about foie gras and caviar. The focus at this eight-seat spot is on probiotics. Around a U-shaped counter hidden behind a shop in Long Island City, you’ll eat a roughly seven-course meal that makes heavy use of traditional Korean fermentation techniques. Expect things like short rib with ssamjang, amberjack with gochujang, and fried seaperch accompanied by a dab of 128-year-old soy sauce. For an intimate night out with a chef who'll talk your ear off about healthy bacteria, Meju is well worth the $215 price tag." - bryan kim, kenny yang

"Meju, named for fermented soybean paste, bases most of its menu on fermentation and is led by Chef Hooni Kim." - The MICHELIN Guide