Thomas Stewart Buchanan
Google
Our recent late-afternoon dining experience at Kogo, a highly-rated establishment boasting a coveted spot in the Michelin guide, was unfortunately a tale of two halves, with the first half being quite frankly a bit of a mess. Anticipation was high, especially as the restaurant graciously agreed to accommodate my wife's vegan diet, a rarity given their meat and fish-heavy menu. We also noticed that the other part of the room appeared to have normal, and likely more comfortable, seating, making our eventual placement even more frustrating.
Our initial impressions were tarnished upon arrival. Despite having a booking, our table wasn't ready, leaving us awkwardly standing in the middle of the dining room for a full ten minutes. The confusion continued when another party attempted to claim our table, with staff seemingly unsure of the seating arrangements. We eventually found ourselves in an area with mismatched seating, a stark contrast to the seemingly better-appointed section we had glimpsed earlier. I, with my shorter torso, was practically adrift on a high bench, a good half-meter from the table, while my wife, possessing a normal-length torso, was awkwardly perched on a low stool. This uncomfortable setup immediately set a negative tone for the evening. This seating area was clearly not designed for dining and needs significant improvement.
The dietary accommodations, though initially promising, proved to be a source of further disappointment. When my wife explained she was vegan, the staff member's confused expression and question about whether she ate fish revealed a concerning lack of understanding of basic dietary requirements. While I acknowledge Kogo's focus on meat and fish, in this day and age, a basic understanding of veganism should be expected. A suggestion of risotto was uninspiring, and despite asking the waiter to consult with the chef about potential vegan options, nothing materialized. My wife ultimately settled for a selection of grilled vegetables, mushrooms, and salad.
My own order, a ribeye steak with a side salad (the size of which was unknown when ordering), was passable but unremarkable. The steak was cooked acceptably, but an unusually high fat content (around 30%) was disappointing. The toasted potatoes were the highlight of my dish, though the combination of those, the side salad, and the vegetable side proved to be far too much food.
The presentation of my wife's meal was frankly bizarre. Two bowls were placed directly in front of her, one filled with oil-soaked grilled vegetables and the other with mushrooms. The mushrooms, while looking good, were reportedly so salty that they were almost inedible. The overall presentation was baffling. Why no plate? Why two bowls? We had to request a plate (twice, as the first was a side plate) and then awkwardly transfer the food, creating an unnecessarily messy situation. The vegetables themselves were swimming in oil, lacking any discernible sauce or seasoning. The only positive here was the price, which was surprisingly low for side dishes.
In conclusion, our experience at Kogo was a letdown, particularly considering its reputation and Michelin guide inclusion. The service was disorganized, the seating uncomfortable, and the approach to dietary needs was, at best, poorly executed. While my steak was okay and my potatoes were very good, my wife's vegan meal was an afterthought, both in conception and presentation, with the added insult of overly salted mushrooms. A restaurant of this caliber should strive for consistency and inclusivity, neither of which were evident during our visit. I'd recommend looking elsewhere if you're seeking a truly exceptional dining experience, especially if you have any dietary restrictions or prefer comfortable seating in the late afternoon.
