Brendan Spriggs
Google
hôntô; nothing less than an experience.
From the unassuming door at the end of an otherwise dank and dirty street, to the long (long!) darkened hallway lit only sporadically with retro-styled filament globes. Suspense builds and sets a moody tone before finally giving way to the open-plan dining room.
Lit only by with candles, dim chandeliers/filament globes and the occasional flash and flame from the central cooking area, the dining area itself has clearly been designed with a specific vibe in mind. Black walls, floor, tables and chairs - broken up only by the brushed chrome carafes and pops of white from the menus and plates. A spectacle, but hell for anyone who doesn’t favour lowlight conditions.
The food itself was fantastic - for the most part. Together we gorged ourselves on 9 different items, experiencing both highs and lows throughout the culinary journey.
Some dishes to note -
Coral Trout, Sweet Ginger, Avocado, Fresh Horseradish - With the inclusion of the ubiquitous Kingfish dish on every modern ‘trendy’ menu, opting for the Coral Trout instead seemed like a clear choice. With slightly more bite and creaminess, the raw trout was beautifully complemented by an acidic dressing, with dots of avocado purée peppering the plate.
Torched Salmon Nigiri, Kabayaki, Wasabi Salsa & Tuna Nigiri, Masago Arare, Wasabi -
6 wonderfully smoky Salmon Nigiri, seasoned with a brush of soy and topped with a freshly prepared Wasabi Root Salsa - an absolute treat. The spicy brightness of the salsa cut through the richness of the torched salmon like a knife. Arguably the closest we came to ‘traditional’ sushi that night, and well worth its spot on the menu.
In contrast, the Tuna nigiri instead presented an unexpected twist on the traditional dish. Rather than the slice of Toro/Otoro Tuna upon seasoned rice one might expect, the Tuna was instead minced and combined with other flavours, before being re-formed on top of the seasoned rice and topped with smattering of crisp pearls for much needed textural contrast. While texturally interesting, perhaps a single high quality cut of Tuna would have been equally satisfying - without the unnecessary complexity.
Charred Snake Beans, Whipped Tofu, Crispy Chilli -
The low point of the night. Despite the heaping plate of tangled snake beans being impressively dressed and topped with various sauces and accoutrement, sadly, that’s where the excitement ended - upon closer inspection, the beans were sitting in what can only be described as a shallow pool of oil, with no bean left un-coated. Attempting to de-tangle and eat the bean resulted in anything nearby being coated in the oil, whether it be the plate, cutlery, napkins - even the table itself falling victim to the oily onslaught. Flavour-wise, they were unremarkable, any semblance of flavour drowned out by the oppressive bitterness of the oil.
Shiitake Caramel & Chocolate Ice Cream Sando -
Proposing an interesting flavour combination, these ultimately didn’t land. Any semblance of Shiitake flavour was drowned out by the overpowering salted caramel taste - in a way this made the dish memorable in itself, as with each bite we were were more focused on the search for the elusive Shiitake, moreso than actually enjoying the otherwise serviceable icecream sando.
As to be expected, the drinks list was extensive, featuring a variety of cocktails, spirits (especially Japanese whisky!), sake and wines. A fun note for Kill Bill fans - each cocktail is named after a line from the movie! ‘The Bride’ and ‘The Man from Okinawa’ both especially stood out and complemented the dishes perfectly.
Overall, a wonderfully curated experience; the service was attentive without being overbearing, the drinks were fantastic, and the food was delicious - though not without inconsistencies.
Mileage may vary over time, especially if the menu is changed seasonably and new items are introduced - but barring the snakebeans, I would happily recommend nearly every dish we had the pleasure of trying.
An easy 4-4.5 - leave the beans, stay for the fish.
