5 Postcards
Step into Haus Hiltl, the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant, where a vibrant buffet of global meatless delights awaits in a cozy, historic setting.
"This café is just like you imagine Signore Bovelli’s favorite café. High ceilings, natural stone mixed with warm wood furniture, a seemingly endless counter bar and the whole room flushed with cozy light. Bovelli is a guarantee for full-bodied coffee of the finest quality. Freshly pressed juices, a great selection of panini and delicate amaretti are on the daily menu. In the evening the lights are dimmed, candles are lit, soul music resonates from the background and a vast variety of delicious cocktails awaits you." - Plasmadesign Studio
"Opened in 1898, Hiltl is part of a historic culture of spas and sanatoriums in Europe that pioneered vegetarianism as a treatment for various ailments. At multiple locations throughout Switzerland, the chain employs a pay-by-weight system. Help yourself to any of the dishes in the dining room (which run the gamut of global vegetarian cuisine, from samosas to salads) then take it over to be weighed before digging in. The Zurich location is in the historical Altstadt district, so you can easily walk over after some morning or afternoon sightseeing." - N.A. Mansour
"For vegetarians left hungry by the meat-laden menus of many European restaurants, Haus Hiltl’s 100-dish no-meat buffet is like water in the desert. A veritable cornucopia of global vegetarian flavors, from saffron gnocchi to palak paneer, the pay-by-weight buffet is only one part of what is now a Swiss vegetarian empire, which has its headquarters on Zurich’s Sihlstrasse. While the Guinness Book of World Records named Haus Hiltl the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant, it’s more likely the oldest of its kind in the Western world. Opened by restauranteur Ambrosius Hiltl in 1898, the still family-owned establishment has been been patronized by notable vegetarians, including at least one prime minister, ever since. Originally dubbing his eatery with the admittedly less sexy-sounding name Vegetarierheim and Abstinenzcafé (“vegetarian home and abstinence cafe”), Ambrosius Hiltl was a man ahead of his time. More than 100 years before the plant-based diet influencers of Instagram, he became a convert to the health benefits of avoiding meat when, at a doctor’s recommendation, he switched to an all-veg diet to help his rheumatism. When his rheumatism improved, Hiltl became a lifelong advocate of vegetarianism. At the time in Switzerland, the Sunday roast was considered the pinnacle of culinary accomplishment, and Hiltl’s vegetarian cathedral was derided as a “root cellar.” As family lore has it, some initial customers were so ashamed of their meatless emasculation (then, like now, meat was tied to bodily robustness and masculinity), they entered the establishment through the back door. Today, the restaurant’s tagline, “Healthy Indulgence,” continues to push back against the stereotype that vegetarian food is bland. Haus Hiltl owes much of its menu to vegetarian dining traditions in other parts of the world, particularly India. Thanks to religious practices within Hinduism, Buddhism, and Jainism, many of India’s vast and varied cuisines have been historically vegetarian—and these cuisines had a longstanding impact on Haus Hiltl’s menu. In 1951, family member Margrith Hiltl served as Switzerland’s delegate in the World Vegetarian Congress in Delhi. There, she met future Indian Prime Minister Morarji Desai, who ate at Haus Hiltl on a journey to Switzerland in 1953. The cultural exchange has enriched Hiltl’s menu, which includes items such as an Indian vegetarian thali, or meal combo. The restaurant remains a great option for vegetarians lost in a sea of meat, but the owners say that about 80 percent of diners aren’t vegetarian: They just come for the food. With dishes such as eggplant-and-okra-filled bamja, a mean vegetarian Bolognese, and a pay-by-weight dessert buffet, even the most avowed of carnivores are sure to admit that the erstwhile “abstinence cafe” is anything but a root cellar." - ATLAS_OBSCURA
"A History of Vegetarian Cooking at Hiltl With its sausage-centric food culture, Zurich may not be the most likely home for the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant, but family-owned Hiltl has been serving up vegetarian fare for over four generations. This restaurant competes with the city’s great gourmet empires and attracts vegetarians and carnivores alike with its inventive cuisine and sprawling buffet. Over the past hundred years, its offerings have evolved from simple and starch-heavy to exotic and globally inspired. Go not only for the food but the experience: The three-story building includes a cocktail bar, a nightclub and cooking instruction area. Sponsored by Swiss International Air Lines"
"For vegetarians left hungry by the meat-laden menus of many European restaurants, Haus Hiltl’s 100-dish no-meat buffet is like water in the desert. A veritable cornucopia of global vegetarian flavors, from saffron gnocchi to palak paneer, the pay-by-weight buffet is only one part of what is now a Swiss vegetarian empire, which has its headquarters on Zurich’s Sihlstrasse. While the Guinness Book of World Records named Haus Hiltl the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant, it’s more likely the oldest of its kind in the Western world. Opened by restauranteur Ambrosius Hiltl in 1898, the still family-owned establishment has been been patronized by notable vegetarians, including at least one prime minister, ever since. Originally dubbing his eatery with the admittedly less sexy-sounding name Vegetarierheim and Abstinenzcafé (“vegetarian home and abstinence cafe”), Ambrosius Hiltl was a man ahead of his time. More than 100 years before the plant-based diet influencers of Instagram, he became a convert to the health benefits of avoiding meat when, at a doctor’s recommendation, he switched to an all-veg diet to help his rheumatism. When his rheumatism improved, Hiltl became a lifelong advocate of vegetarianism. At the time in Switzerland, the Sunday roast was considered the pinnacle of culinary accomplishment, and Hiltl’s vegetarian cathedral was derided as a “root cellar.” As family lore has it, some initial customers were so ashamed of their meatless emasculation (then, like now, meat was tied to bodily robustness and masculinity), they entered the establishment through the back door. Today, the restaurant’s tagline, “Healthy Indulgence,” continues to push back against the stereotype that vegetarian food is bland. Haus Hiltl owes much of its menu to vegetarian dining traditions in other parts of the world, particularly India. Thanks to religious practices within Hinduism, Buddhism, and Jainism, many of India’s vast and varied cuisines have been historically vegetarian—and these cuisines had a longstanding impact on Haus Hiltl’s menu. In 1951, family member Margrith Hiltl served as Switzerland’s delegate in the World Vegetarian Congress in Delhi. There, she met future Indian Prime Minister Morarji Desai, who ate at Haus Hiltl on a journey to Switzerland in 1953. The cultural exchange has enriched Hiltl’s menu, which includes items such as an Indian vegetarian thali, or meal combo. The restaurant remains a great option for vegetarians lost in a sea of meat, but the owners say that about 80 percent of diners aren’t vegetarian: They just come for the food. With dishes such as eggplant-and-okra-filled bamja, a mean vegetarian Bolognese, and a pay-by-weight dessert buffet, even the most avowed of carnivores are sure to admit that the erstwhile “abstinence cafe” is anything but a root cellar. Know Before You Go While Haus Hiltl on Sihlstrasse is the restaurant's flagship location (and the location of its most formidable buffet), there are several other locations in Zurich, including a la carte restaurants and Switzerland's only vegetarian deli. The flagship location is open 365 days a year, so you don't have to let pesky things such as public holidays come between you and a serious craving for vegetarian. If you want to take your commitment to vegetarian bliss one step further, the Hiltl empire also offers cooking classes." - Reina Gattuso, Collector of Experiences, vasconcelloscynthia
Caroline Stahl
Zhihan Lee
Ananya Ananth
Ali
Aljawaher
Richard Meddings
Quynh Anh N.
Tara Clapper
Caroline Stahl
Zhihan Lee
Ananya Ananth
Ali
Aljawaher
Richard Meddings
Quynh Anh N.
Tara Clapper