Fjærland

"You're going to disappoint the children. They expect a fat Santa." ~Mrs. Claus, Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer When travelling close to Flåm, a restorative and quaint side tour for regular humans (or pit stop for fjamous men in red suits needing to fatten up before a worldwide tour) is a trip to Fjaerland by passengerboat. Fjaerland is a fjolksy village of about 300 people, sitting along the Sognefjord where it meets the Jostedahlsbreen glacier. The town, dubbed "Norway's Book Town", is known for its secondhand bookshops...some even set in old cow sheds and pigpens! If you haven't come for the books, you are likely there to see and experience the surrounding magical scenery by kayak or by hiking through the mountains or glaciers. Whether you've worked up your hunger by hiking, bumming around bookshops, or delivering presents, you'll eventually be fjamished for lunch. There is no fjiner choice than to dine at Fjaerland Fjordstove. Fjabulously situated overlooking the fjord and glacier, Fjordstove hotel and restaurant charms with its amazing setting and shabby chic décor. At the reception desk, we met the fjastinating and hospitable hotel owner, Bard Huseby, who promptly guided us to a seat outside on the wrap-around deck. We felt like we were sitting in the middle of a live postcard with unbelievable views in every direction! Bard was quick to make us feel at home and ensure that we swiftly had beer in our hands to help us cool down and relax. We had grown so fjond of Hansa beer that we all ordered it without a second thought. Unfortunately though, we all regretted that choice later once we found out that Bard makes his own craft beer, Fjaerlands Ale. Hansa glasses in hand, we considered ourselves very fjortunate to enjoy such a tranquil spot where time seemed to stand still. The scene almost fjelt fjictitious, but our hungry stomachs quickly brought us back to reality. While looking over the menu, we appreciatively noticed that the hotel procures its ingredients locally (beef will come from grass-fed cattle in fields close to the hotel), including the reindeer meat in the burgers we ordered. Let's hope none of that meat came from everyone's favorite reindeer, or there will be a lot of sad boys and girls (and adults) this Christmas! So what is reindeer meat like? Our burgers were very flavorful and juicy with no hint of reindeer game-iness or tinsel at all. There was a fjaint aftertaste of wrapping paper, but that quickly crumpled away. I wouldn't say the meat glowed, but it was very lean and tender--definitely a burger that would go down in history! Our lunch and the great views at Fjordstove were some of our fjavorites from our trip! Though we likely won't be back in the fjorseeable fjuture due to the remoteness of the village, you should definitely pop in for fjeast here if you are in the area. If you're lucky, maybe you'll get to peek at Santa's "Naughty or Nice" list!

Amazing dinner - way more inventive and delicious than anyone would expect to find out here in beautiful, remote Fjærland. Three course dinners are served here each evening with seasonal, local ingredients at 7:30 sharp. This charming hotel has a farmhouse feel overlooking the water and nearby glaciers, and the setting is intimate with about a dozen tables. We weren't guests at the hotel but we decided to make a reservation as this was a quick walk from where we were staying. It was a relaxed fine dining experience, definitely one of the best meals of our Norway trip and worth a detour if you are wandering the fjords. I would recommend making a reservation in advance using the contact number on their website, note the price for dinner was 550 kr per person as of Aug 2017. Tonight's menu was smoked fish to start with a lovely beetroot creme, a hearty plate of braised ox and cabbage, and finally a creative dessert of rhubarb topped with ice cream and a delightful sweet wafer. This was the type of food we hoped to enjoy in Norway!

Unfortunately this was our least favorite of all the hotels we stayed in during our 7 day Norway trip. Yes you are on a fjord, but all the other places we stayed at were too and the rooms/hotel were much nicer for comparable prices. Our room was extremely tiny and spartan and not equipped with the usual things other hotels in this price range have (eg, coffee/tea, tissues, lotion) but the big problem was the subpar sleep quality. They provide earplugs warning people about noise - but I wish I'd known this before booking. Between our bouncy mattress (air mattress?), the noise from all the other guests talking/walking around, and the cheap shades that did not block out light (this is Norway in June), we barely got any sleep. I'd grown used to the comfortable beds and great sleep at the other hotels in Norway, so this was a surprise. We also had zero hot water when we showered in the evening, and after a day of hiking/kayaking this was pretty frustrating.

Without a doubt, the Fjærland Fjordstue Hotel was our best stay during our Norway trip that lasted for about 9 days. After driving through the Norwegian countryside, the Fjaerland is a welcome site in Mundal right on the lake, with a deck that provides an absolutely breathtaking view. The breakfast in the morning was also wonderful, with several tables of food setup for us and a few other guests. Bard, presumably the property manager, was very friendly and helpful during the booking process, accommodating our stay well. In all my days dealing with hotels, I would only hope for another person like Bard when contacting a hotel. The clerk at the hotel was also very friendly and recommended a great local brew that was priced very reasonably. I only wish that I had bought more! With great access to Jostedalbreen National Park and much of the picturesque fjord region, I'd definitely stay here again!