7 Postcards
Esse Taco in Williamsburg, the creation of Michelin-starred chef Enrique Olvera, serves up delectable, thinly-sliced tacos and a must-try corn husk sundae in a lively, casual setting.
"At this pedigreed taco shop from the chef behind Mexico City’s most famous restaurant, the tacos aren’t the star of the show. In fact, the best thing you can do at Esse Taco in Williamsburg is get dessert. The corn husk ice cream sundae, a transfer student from Cosme, is excellent—a perfect summer treat. This place is also a fun summer hang, with big French doors, music blasting onto Bedford Ave., and silver-painted oil drums that serve as a resting place for plates, napkin holders, and excellent agua frescas. photo credit: Will Hartman photo credit: Natalie Black photo credit: Will Hartman The thinly shaved rib eye and fatty pork adobada tacos aren’t worth planning a day around, but they will still hit the spot if you’re in the area. The proteins come on made-to-order corn tortillas, which smell like a walk through a cornfield, and—for the location—there’s pretty good value to be found. No single taco costs more than $6, and you can get “todos los tacos” for $20. For a dollar more per taco, you can “make them gringa,” changing out the corn tortillas for flour ones, with melted chihuahua cheese for some variety. Top them (cautiously) with some very spicy salsa from a washbasin-sized molcajete. Food Rundown photo credit: Will Hartman Corn Husk Sundae If Esse Taco were just an ice cream shop, this corn husk sundae would make it one of our top spots for frozen desserts. Creamy, subtle with corn flavor, and made complete by a nice meringue crunch, this has “little treat” written all over it. photo credit: Will Hartman Agua Fresca The pineapple agua fresca is a wonderful beverage. Not too sweet but juicy, and with a subtle hint of cinnamon, this is a must-order with any purchase. photo credit: Will Hartman Pork Adobada A crispy, fatty pork adobada served with a rich and bright pineapple butter. The meat is charred, bite-sized, dripping with orange pig fat, and it’s our favorite taco on the menu. Chicken Puc Choc The chicken taco by itself is fine, but benefits from gringa-zation. Most things are better with melted cheese, but this chicken’s punchy marinade especially needs some fat. Add some of their very hot salsa to this. The chicken is also cut into planks here, but the piece of meat is smaller and leads to less tortilla danger. Ribeye Steak This rib eye taco uses beef that’s cut like beef for a cheesesteak. Shaved very thin and served with an orange salsa guacachile, it pairs well with Esse's corn tortilla. photo credit: Will Hartman Oyster Mushroom Smoked over mesquite, and served with a smoky and sweet salsa tatemada, this is a vegetarian taco worth ordering even if you have no dietary preferences. If you eat cheese, this one works well as a gringa." - Will Hartman
"Esse Taco isn’t the best new taqueria in town, but it’s certainly the most popular: The Williamsburg restaurant opened in May, and it seems to have had a line out the door ever since. The taqueria takes its cues from Mexico City: The owner, Enrique Olvera, is behind the Mexican fine dining restaurants Cosme and Pujol. The menu has four tacos — rib-eye, al pastor, chicken, and mushroom — served in thin cutlets, rather than chopped-up pieces." - Luke Fortney, Eater Staff
"Esse Taco is a casual taqueria from Enrique Olvera—the chef behind Cosme, and Pujol in Mexico City. It’s a red, standing-room only shop in Williamsburg, where you can currently get tacos with ribeye, grilled chicken and oyster mushrooms. Take them to go, or stick around for a cornhusk sundae." - will hartman
"Enrique Olvera, who just opened Esse Taco in Williamsburg, was one of two restaurants to earn two Michelin stars in Mexico’s first Michelin guide." - Melissa McCart