8 Postcards
Chinois On Main, Wolfgang Puck's nostalgic fusion spot, serves up eclectic Asian-French dishes in a vibrant, throwback setting that's perfect for gatherings.
"Open since 1983, Wolfgang Puck’s Santa Monica staple Chinois On Main serves what they call Chinese-French fusion cuisine. They’ve got limited outdoor seating available - reserve here." - brett keating
"A destination since 1983, this local darling has been welcoming guests as old friends to dine on their cuisine, which is a tad Asian, a touch Californian and a bit French. Little seems to have changed through the decades—it is busy, loud and served by an attentive staff. The location, amid boho-chic shops, remains a boon.This kitchen shines by way of a number of signature items, like made-to-order garlic chicken spring rolls or Cantonese duck with plum sauce. The sizzling calamari salad is deliciously seasoned with hot chili paste and presented in a wonton cup over crisp vegetables. Many dishes are served family style, so don’t hesitate to order half-portions when available. At the end, splurge on pleasing desserts like a warm chocolate fondant cake." - Michelin Inspector
"The New York Times published a thoughtful piece chronicling Sylvia Wu, owner of Madame Wu’s Garden. Wu operated the transformative Santa Monica restaurant for 40 years and died last month at the age of 106." - Mona Holmes
"COVID-19 Update: Open for lunch and dinner pickup only. This place has been around since the '80s, but in the intervening years, it's lost none of its appeal. As a pioneer in the Asian-fusion space (one of Wolfgang Puck's first restaurants), Chinois—which marries French and Chinese cuisine—totally revolutionized the L.A. food scene. Now, the food feels wonderfully familiar in a space that looks straight out of Ruthless People. The curried oysters, duck pancakes, and spicy miso black cod are classics. A trip here always brings a real sense of nostalgia, as this was one of the first foodie destinations in California. The excellent service and family-style servings make it perfect for a group (and there's a private room to accommodate, too). COVID-19 Disclaimer: We are working hard to keep our listings as up to date as possible (deliveries, outdoor dining, etc.), but given the evolving nature of local COVID-19 restrictions, we recommend double-checking the information in this guide with any business you plan on visiting. Also, please note that we have not vetted any businesses listed within our guides for their compliance with applicable safety regulations."
"If you look closely enough at a boa constrictor, you can see two small bumps where its hind legs used to be. Birds that can’t fly still have wings, and humans still have tailbones, even though it’s been a very long time since anything resembling a human had anything resembling a tail. These are vestigial structures - at one point they served a purpose, but now, they all just sort of exist. It’s something we’ve thought a lot about after our recent dinners at Chinois On Main, Wolfgang Puck’s vestigial Santa Monica restaurant. Opened shortly after in 1983, this place helped make the chef a celebrity - famous enough to appear as himself on The Simpsons . But now, all Chinois does is leave us with questions: Why does this place still exist? How do they get away with calling this Chinese food? And how in the world is the dining room fully-booked on a random Wednesday night? Walking into Chinois, one thing is clear: This place has not been updated in decades. Or maybe ever. The space feels like it was decorated by raiding an Old Hollywood prop house’s “China” section. There’s bamboo paneling, crane and Buddha sculptures scattered throughout the dining room, and an entire wall filled with (fake) orchids. While Spago - which is also gaudy and excessive, like the rest of 1980s Beverly Hills - feels charming in its kitschiness, Chinois is the opposite. The restaurant feels at best extremely outdated, and at worst, kind of offensive. And that carries through to the food. The menu includes items named Szechuan beef, Cantonese duck, and Shanghai lobster - but finding any connection to the cooking of those particular regions is a massive stretch. There’s also a dish that’s inexplicably called “Oriental Rice,” which is basically just brown rice with vegetables. It’s a good illustration of all of the food at Chinois: glaringly out of step with the times, and generally pretty bad. Their namesake dish - and one that’s on every table - is the Chinois Chicken Salad. It tastes like it’s left over from the previous weekend. The cabbage is wilted, the fried wontons are soggy, and we were three-quarters of the way through it before we realized there was chicken in it. The Szechuan duck pancakes with mushrooms and corn have just a bit more flavor than cardboard. The sizzling calamari and rock shrimp is served at room temperature, and don’t get your hopes up for any additional kick from the saccharine chili sauce. After a while, the adjectives used to describe the dishes - “sizzling,” “spicy,” “crispy” - start to feel like jokes. By the time the main courses arrive, the food feels less like a joke and more like a scam. The Szechuan beef is overcooked and dry, and no amount of bland sauce can help you chew it. That problematically-named rice dish doesn’t even compete with the frozen fried rice available at Trader Joe’s. Their Shanghai lobster is market-priced at around $60, drowned in a flavorless curry sauce and oily fried spinach, and is about as close to Shanghainese cuisine as the Guinness on tap at Jameson’s Pub across the street. And yet, the dining room at Chinois is always packed. Maybe people are coming out of habit, or perhaps they’re nostalgic for a time when this was the buzziest restaurant in town. But times change, and things evolve for the better. We’re not walking around with tails anymore, because they were useless. Maybe Chinois can learn a lesson there." - Brett Keating