John B.
Yelp
Review #500! FOR ALL THE GLORY!
Ok, perhaps not. This cathedral has stood around since the 13th century and there is nothing I can write about the location or the pilgrimage that someone else hasn't already written. Moreover, my experiences during this trip completely surpass my capabilities as a writer. However, considering this adventure easily cemented itself as my most coveted memory/accomplishment of 2019, I could not find any other place more suitable for a review.
For those unaware, I hiked the Camino de Santiago (a network of trails through the Spanish countryside), completing my pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela and the burial site of the apostle St. James the Greater. It was such a positive experience that I will recommend this trail to anyone capable of doing so. If you must forgo the hike and merely visit the cathedral, that's cool too, but I will advocate for walking the Camino.
___THE CATHEDRAL___
This is one of the only three known churches in the world built over the tomb of an apostle of Jesus. So of course, the cathedral itself is quite massive and grand with awe-inspiring architecture and an abundance of stunning statues as well as other various works of art. I recommend visiting the crypt to kneel at the remains of St. James, hugging the statue of St. James to offer thanks for a safe journey, attending the pilgrim's mass, and taking the tour of the cathedral.
Events here are popular, especially between April and October (when pilgrims usually complete the Camino) with peak season occurring July and August. Lines tend to run long so expect to wait around or try to arrive during off-hours. The pilgrim mass is particularly crowded. Arrive early to secure a seat. Additionally, leave your large packs in a secure location before mass. I arrived for pilgrim mass and the security guard politely told me to leave my pack on a bench outside. I do not recommend that option due to risk of theft. Luckily, I snagged a hotel room in the area and was able to leave my belongings with the front desk there.
Pay attention to the year you visit. Any year when the Feast of St. James (July 25th) falls on a Sunday is considered a Jubilee Year or Holy Year. During these times, the Camino is typically flooded with pilgrims looking to obtain plenary indulgence (forgiveness of sins) and cross through the holy doors of the cathedral which are only open for Jubilee. As of this writing, the next three Holy Years are 2021, 2027, and 2032.
If you're only looking to visit the cathedral without actually walking the Camino, consider planning your trip during the winter months as there are fewer pilgrims around.
___THE CAMINO___
There's something about the Camino that makes it challenging to explain. Rather, this is best comprehended through the experience. You travel to another country for an adventure, immerse yourself in another culture, encounter buildings that predate your own country, spend quite some time in your own head, build surprisingly strong bonds with complete strangers, and visit one of the most beloved religious sites on earth. There's also this peculiar sense of solidarity from waking up every day and hiking for miles with a bunch of random people you just met. The end of the journey was crazy too. I've watched so many vlogs and documentaries about this place that walking through the tunnel into the main square seemed so surreal.
Definitely prepare yourself. Spend time walking long distances and hills before your journey. Take account of everything you need to bring. Familiarize yourself with your gear. Pay attention to pack weight. Wear proper footwear that you have broken in already so as to prevent blisters. Bring a hat and sunblock or purchase those on the trail. Expect rainy weather too. I'm running out of room in this review so just do your research.
Lastly, I've heard accounts of people who rushed to complete the Camino only to arrive at Santiago de Compostela feeling unfulfilled. They put on their headphones, hike at a frantic pace, and focus so much on the destination that they completely miss the journey. That's such a shame. Like c'mon! It's not a race. The cathedral has been around since the 13th century and it's not going anywhere. Take your time and try to give yourself more time than you think you need to complete the distance you set for yourself. Take breaks. Stop for a 2nd cup of coffee. Stop for a beer. Grab some Galician food (which is fantastic btw). Talk to pilgrims and locals. Just enjoy the experience and enjoy being there.
Buen Camino!