JD H.
Yelp
This is part of the underbelly of the dining scene in Madrid...the kind of place that is nondescript on the outside and serves a lot of offal on the inside. My short summary is: Real satisfaction. After eating eating here, God can just take me now.
It is a little hard to find within the warren of small streets just west of the Puerto del Sol where so many great authentic tapas taverns are. Look for the red overhead awning and the least flashy storefront on the street. I actually walked by it a couple times without even realizing it.
Go early and go often. Belly up to the bar if there is room, grab one of the few tables in the front room or head upstairs to the dining salon for a seat. Don't miss all the interesting, haphazard knick knacks and photos on the walls and all over the room. I got lucky and went early and sat right by la plancha where I got to watch the guy cook and prep which is good entertainment for the single traveler. Beer and wine seem to be the norms for most but there is also tap vermouth available and for the outsider like me, if your Spanish is minimal, pointing and looking pathetically hungry seems to get the job done. There is a menu they might hand you with English in it that is helpful and it does not advertise 1/2 order portions that some have commented on which would be a great way to sample several things if you are small in number.
From an American perspective (because we all know that we entitled, Imperialistic colonists believe it is all about us), this is a place where timid eaters and vegetarians will protest. Reading their tapas list is like going through a copy of the Greatest Hits of Offal if there was one. Pig's ears, Veal Sweetbreads, Tripe, Lamb Intestines, Blood Sausage to name a few, will be perceived by the uninitiated as things to find in a little shop of horrors instead of a restaurant.
For my first visit, I ordered Pig's Ears griddled on the flat top (orejas a la plancha) and Blood Sausage (morcilla) which was house made and softly jiggling in the glass case at the bar, sliced before my eyes by the barman and promptly treated to a sauna in the deep fryer resulting in a crispy outer texture with a soft and deeply tasty center. So satisfying in a primal kind of way. But the orejas simply stole the show. It has the fatty mouthfeel of bacon and a deeply porky taste which was heavily seasoned is finished with a hit of housemade smooth red salsa that is a bit caliente in just the right way to cut through the richness. And every once in a while, you get the benefit of a cartilaginous crunch that make eating ears so great. This was, perhaps, one of the best dishes I have ever had. Primal, satisfying, made to order in front of me, and super tasty.
A useful tip if you are alone or with one other person: On the laminated menu you will be handed, all of the prices reflect full "racione" portions and there is no indication that they can do smaller "media" portions. On my 2nd visit, I asked and they will do it and charge half price. That way you can order within your appetite or if there are 2 of you, you can try more items instead of loading up on just 1 or 2 things.
Because I did not know this on my first visit, I had too much food, I shared with some people around me and they shared their Sweetbreads with me which were also delicious, creamy and well-seasoned. I thought they were going to have to call the fire department to extricate me out of my seat at the bar because I was so full and could not move afterwards! My 2nd visit I did half portions of fried anchovies (boquerones frito) and fried Padron peppers. Both excellent and simple choices washed down with a tap vermouth.
Can't say enough good things about this spot. Bravo to Casa Toni! Their tapas and uniqueness are definitely one of the best things I have found to love about Madrid.
