Capella Ubud, Bali

"A luxurious sanctuary nestled in the lush rainforests of Bali, Capella Ubud immerses guests in the island's natural beauty and cultural heritage. It features tented villas with modern amenities and offers a variety of activities that engage guests with Balinese culture." - Travel + Leisure Editors

"Anyone familiar with the work of eccentric hotel designer Bill Bensley knows that a stay at one of his projects is never a straight-line affair. But with Capella Ubud, a luxe tented camp 20 minutes north of Ubud, he takes his kookiness up a notch. Inspired by tales of European explorers poking around the Indonesian archipelago in the 19th century, he designed a whimsical base camp on a sloping patch of jungle where the 22 one-bedroom suites (with sprawling outdoor decks and private plunge pools), reception desk, and fitness center each take over their own tents. All are furnished with Bensley's signature mix of clashing patterns—ikat-pillows, vintage trunks, and sofas upholstered in cowhide—and design quirks ranging from peek-a-boo windows in the showers to brass monkeys dotting the roofs. Dining options include Indonesian omakase-style menus at Api Jiwa, while breakfast-to-dinner Mads Lange dishes out comforting lobster wontons and crab tacos. Come nightfall, head to the campfire for marshmallows, hot cocoa, and vintage Indonesian flicks." - Chris Schalkx, Juliet Kinsman

"This rainforest retreat, designed by Bangkok-based architect Bill Bensley, leaves a light footprint. Located 4.5 miles from the ever-more-crowded village of Ubud, Capella sits along a quiet river embankment in the traditional rice-farming village of Keliki." - Kathryn Romeyn

"Set the scene.Deep in the higgledy-piggledy Keliki Valley, Capella Ubud is easily missed—only the eagle-eyed might spot the dark pitched roofs of tents beside a river in this steep patch of Balinese jungle. Brass monkey statues among the foliage are the first clue that imaginative designer Bill Bensley has been at play here. Step inside the front portico and the immersive, theatrical experience begins, transporting guests back to the early 19th century and the era of spice-trade explorers. What's the story?It’s the first hotel from Suwito Gunawan, a Jakarta steel magnate, who wisely asked Bensley (the designer behind Shinta Mani Wild, The Siam, and the InterContinental Danang) to take over the creative reins—the two met while antique-hunting in the Netherlands. Bensley took inspiration from Marco Polo's expedition from China to Indonesia, as well as 19th-century Danish explorer Mads Johansen Lange (the restaurant is named after him), who was nicknamed The White Rajah of Bali and became a successful trader in coffee, rice, and spices. What can we expect in our room?Each tent has an individual personality with curios that match; the Cartographer’s Tent has parchment, compasses, and telescopes; the Carpenter’s Tent has all sorts of artisan tools; the Princess Tent has a dramatic four-poster bed, fabric cascading down from the roof. Balinese culture is in evidence in the handmade batiks and ikat textiles; and there are treasures from Dutch auctions and Balinese antique stores. How about the food and drink?There are two restaurants. Api Jiwa is a Japanese robatayaki restaurant with eight- to 10-course tasting menus, with cuts of seafood and meat seared on the grill then customized with spices. In the Mads Lange bistro, plates include crab tacos, Wagyu brisket, duck in coconut bark, and red snapper. Aussie chef Matthew McCool’s methods are local and sustainable—and cocktails are often house brewed and barrel aged. Try The Cistern, made with vodka-infused yogurt, almond syrup, cardamom, and rose water. The Sunday jazz brunch is pretty special. Anything to say about the service?The friendly and well-trained staff seem genuinely delighted to work here—and around 60 percent of them come from the immediate area. Anything else we should know?There’s also a gym, a tented spa, and a pool—in what looks like a giant cistern. Is it worth it?It’s expensive but truly one of a kind—and a successful modernization of a colonial style that’s rare for Bali." - Juliet Kinsman

"It’s not like Bali needed another hotel, especially around the island’s teeming spiritual hub of Ubud. But the notoriously inventive Bill Bensley envisioned something wholly divergent for this 10-acre patch of jungle north of the city on the Wos River: a fanciful take on a tented camp pitched by early-19th-century spice traders. This is hotel as theater. On arrival, visitors receive a survival kit (sunscreen, insect repellent, a map), plus a carved walking stick to help pick their way over the suspension bridges leading to 22 black canvas tents with saltwater plunge pools. Bensley’s light-footprint approach (not a single tree was felled) means the camp blends seamlessly into its backdrop, the tent walls porous to the hooting birds of the jungle. It’s ideal for those looking to approach Bali in a more conscious way—staying here is like returning to the island’s former wild self."