Ballyfin Demesne

"So, can you tell us a little about this place? For unabashed, gilt-framed grandeur, nowhere in Ireland can beat Ballyfin. Aside from being the country’s top hotel, this Regency pile is also one of the finest and most intricate historical restorations this century. Uniformed valets will appear to unload your car while you are greeted like a much-anticipated house guest. Can you tell us a little more about its history? The political upheaval that followed World War I brought the Anglo-Irish idyll to an abrupt end and Ballyfin’s owner, the 13th Baronet Coote, sold the property to a Catholic teaching order, who established a boys’ school here. Unable to keep up with relentless maintenance costs, the Brothers sold Ballyfin in 2001 to American billionaire Fred Krehbiel and his Irish wife, Kay. The restoration process was immense, involving the finest talents from both sides of the Irish Sea, not least London-based designer Colin Orchard, who co-ordinated the hotel’s exceptional interiors. Got it. What can we expect from the bedrooms? Any favorites among the bunch? The Westmeath Room has fabulous yellow and gold Mauny wallpaper and an opulent 18th-century French bed right in the middle. The newly opened Gardener’s Cottage (a five-minute walk from the main house) has a country-style kitchen and a drawing room with fat sofas, heavy curtains and open log fires, with a bedroom decorated in spring-like pale greens and creams. No techy gimmicks. Perfect; sounds very elegant. How about the food and drink—what's the deal? Formal but not black tie. Chef Sam Moody, who trained under Michael Caines at Gidleigh Park and won a Michelin star at the Bath Priory hotel, uses ingredients grown in the eight-acre walled garden. Breakfast is a triumph: organic steel-cut Irish oats with honey from the estate bees, fresh eggs, and Irish sour dough toast with homemade fruit jam. Our mouths are watering. Anything to say about the service? Super-discreet and seamless. Staff are never overbearing; and several of them are fully versed in the property’s history and lead guided tours of the house. Nothing is too much bother—whether you want to picnic in the grounds, tour other local houses and gardens, or head to the hills for a strapping hike. Excellent. Well then, what type of person stays here? House guests are predominantly American, with some Europeans and home-grown Irish. Discerning types who enjoy the full immersion into Anglo-Irish history and pedigree. Alright. Is it close to anything? Tell us a little about the environs. Slap bang in the middle of a 614-acre country estate with the Slieve Bloom mountains rolling behind in a wash of purple heather. Gorgeous. Anything we missed? This really isn’t a child-appropriate kind of a place. Get outside and make the most of that soft Irish air whether it’s ambling, riding or cycling through the grounds or rowing on that beautiful lake. Alright, we'll book a sitter. And anything you’d change? Ban all sight and sound of golf buggies. Fair! Is it worth it—why? The place to indulge in the unbridled opulence of an early 20th-century aristocrat. Plenty of people hire the whole place and throw the ultimate decadent house party. Ballyfin has 40 dressing-up costumes for guests to borrow." - Pamela Goodman

"Coûte que coûte" goes the punning family motto of Sir Charles Coote, for whom the opulent Ballyfin estate was conceived in the early 19th century. "No matter the cost" is how this loosely translates, proving as apt an adage in the 21st century as it was then. Many millions of euros may have been lavished on this stately pile in Ireland's County Laois, both in its original construction and, more recently, its painstaking restoration. For the architectural historian, the house is a head turner—the culmination of Regency craftsmanship brought together in lusciously modeled plasterwork, scagliola in varying colors, stained glass, and staggeringly intricate parquetry. For the sybarite, the house is a place of comfort and grandeur, not least in the Gold Drawing Room where walls are hung with lustrous silk and vast windows frame views of the 28-acre lake. The grounds are made for strolling in the complimentary wellies, with grottoes and rockeries, a folly and a fernery, a rose garden, and an aviary. There is no finer Irish-country house experience." - CNT Editors, Nicholas DeRenzo

"Ballyfin is modeled on a traditional Irish country house with 20 rooms, offering activities like wine tastings and period costume experiences." - Kelsey Fowler Kelsey Fowler Kelsey Fowler is a New York City-based journalist who specializes in covering travel, business, and news. She is a frequent contributor to Travel + Leisure and currently works at The New York Times as a coordina

"The most important aspect of Ballyfin is that it has been restored “to period” and the current owners went around to auctions and bought up furniture, silverware, and anything else they could find that was owned by the family that originally built the house back in the 1820s. So if you are the kind of person who dreams of researching Chinese Chippendale furniture on 1stdibs, or talks about your great-great-great-grandparents, this is the place for you. They’ve even got falconry. And with 614 acres of gardens, you should try to get out of the room at least once and have yourself a stroll. With a falcon." (Starting $1,833/night)