"My favorite place on earth might just be the Marche de Clignancourt, that vast flea market expanse in northern Paris. And my favorite marche of all the marches strung along the Rue de Roisiers might just be Vernaison. Wander the twisted alleyways and you will inevitably end up at Chez Louisette, which looks at first blush like a cheesy Hollywood director’s idea of a Paris café. There is an Edith Piaf wannabe warbling, the staff is sassy, and they have been seducing tourists for almost a century. A few years ago, Ladyfag and her wife Skin convinced me that I should put aside my misgivings, take a break from flea-ing, and join them here. They were right. I never had a better time."