Walking down Queen Street towards Eagle Street, you’ll notice an illuminated glass box filled with dry-aging ducks. It’s a sight more common in Chinatown or the streets of Hong Kong than in the Brisbane CBD but, at Central, it sets the tone for what’s to come. Descend a moody concrete staircase, and you’ll find yourself in a hidden cave-like space surrounded by 150-year-old rock walls. The basement restaurant is the newest venue from the Rick Shores and Southside team. Native Hong Konger Benny Lam is executive chef. He’s serving surprising takes on Hong Kong classics, like pineapple buns filled with crispy prosciutto and smoked butter, and fried dough served with smoked foie gras and Davidson’s plum jus. Other dishes include Wagyu beef tartare in a fermented soybean sauce and drunken chicken. There’s dim sum, of course, and larger dishes include wok-fried lobster noodles, triple-cooked Wagyu short rib, and roast duck with lilly pilly plum sauce.
