"[My friend Meg] told me to come to Bacaro in Chinatown, and that she’d be with her friend Chase, a documentary filmmaker. Meg and Chase were drinking martinis when I arrived, so I ordered one too, even though in my head I had been planning to go home after two beers. One martini turned into two, and two turned into three, which I couldn’t believe. Then we ordered dinner — I got ricotta cavatelli with duck ragu — and somehow I ended up with a fourth martini."