"Opened in 2013 in a converted garage in Red Hook, Hometown Bar-B-Que grew out of Billy Durney’s home-smoker experiments and research trips to pit masters in Texas, Illinois, and South America; it quickly became one of New York’s most exciting and unassuming places to eat. I found its ragged slices of brisket and hulking beef ribs—served on wax paper—delicious and brutish-looking, emblematic of the grand tradition of American barbecue." - Hannah Goldfield