"In 2016, Trigg Brown and Josh Ku opened Win Son, in East Williamsburg, showcasing slightly cheffy but faithful renditions of night-market treats, like oyster omelettes, popcorn chicken, and stinky tofu (fermented until it takes on a barnyard funk), and home-style dishes including the evocatively named cangying tou, or “fly’s head,” a crunchy stir-fry of minced garlic chives, ground pork, and fermented black beans." - Hannah Goldfield