"In March, the intensely beloved fifty-eight-year-old Cantonese restaurant, which seemed to have weathered the pandemic O.K., closed abruptly. Though a notice on the façade explained that the closure was only for renovations, and offered assurance that the restaurant would reopen on the first of June, under the same management, some passionate patrons grew concerned as June came and went. In early September, when the metal gates were finally raised: rejoicement." - Hannah Goldfield
newyorker.com
