The Transportive Thai Diner | The New Yorker

"I came close to cancelling an outdoor lunch at Thai Diner in Nolita because of the forecast, and that would have been a mistake: the pouring rain, heat lamp, and a tidy sidewalk platform beneath a charming retro awning only enhanced the experience. Seated with two friends and the patio to ourselves, we spilled dishes across two tables — silky kabocha-squash red curry with a flaky sheet of roti for dipping; lamb laab with sticky rice; broad, sweet-slicked phat see eiw (pad see ew) with Chinese broccoli and tender short rib; and a tureen of creamy khao soi crowned by a chicken leg and a nest of crispy noodles — while droplets pattered overhead like a rain stick. The enclosed outdoor-dining structure on Mott Street, designed by Ann Redding’s sister May, is transportive with booths, thatched-bamboo walls, big easy-to-open windows and fans, recalling both Thailand and mid-century American train-car diners; the vibe also suits the menu’s compact sesame-bun burger, the experimental Thai disco fries smothered in massaman curry with red onions, peanuts, and coconut cream, and the reunited superlative phat Thai served with a cut-crystal coupe of minced peanuts, dried shrimp, raw onion, and ginger to wrap in peppery betel leaves. Opened in February 2020 by co-chefs/co-owners Ann Redding and Matt Danzer, the place honors family influence (Redding’s mother adapted Thai cooking for the U.S.) with playful items like Thai-tea–flavored babka French toast and roti-wrapped egg sandwiches (with sai oua or avocado and bok choy), retains broad appeal — the original opening crowd included construction workers, police officers, and seniors — has adapted a counter to support increased takeout, and even sends desserts like a Thai-coffee “monster cake” (fondant googly eyes and cashew eyebrows) home intact; dishes run about $8–$25." - Hannah Goldfield