Restaurant Review: 886, Ho Foods, and New York’s Taiwanese New Wave | The New Yorker

"I watched Ho Foods, a pop-up that became a brick-and-mortar, draw forty people before breakfast one Saturday in November, all clamoring for rare Manhattan staples: fresh-made sweetened soy milk (warm or cold) with a long twisty cruller for dipping, a scrambled-egg bao, and a sticky-rice 'burrito' wrapped around a piece of cruller, a wad of sweet pork floss, and pickled mustard greens and turnips. In the evening the chef’s braised-beef noodle soup is stellar: supple noodles, spongy coins of beef shank, and a twenty-four-hour bone-and-marrow broth seasoned with rock sugar, star anise, and cinnamon, as fragrant as a bakery." - Hannah Goldfield