"When Ho Foods, a pop-up that turned brick and mortar in January, started serving breakfast, one Saturday in November, forty people lined up before the door opened, clamoring for staples that are rare in Manhattan: fresh-made sweetened soy milk, served warm or cold, with a long, twisty cruller for dipping; a scrambled-egg bao; a log of sticky rice, wrapped in plastic like a burrito around a piece of cruller, a wad of sweet pork floss, and pickled mustard greens and turnips." - Hannah Goldfield