"The South Korean capital has more to offer than kimchi and K-pop. A series of seismic events shook Korea in the 20th century: 35 years of Japanese occupation, division into north and south and, as recently as the 1950s, the Korean War. But Seoul picked itself up and modernisation advanced at a dizzying pace in the second half of the century. Today the glass façades of gleaming skyscrapers overlook the tiled roofs of traditional hanok houses; while world-class cocktail bars rub shoulders with rustic teahouses and shoes-off restaurants." To view the full guide, visit and subscribe at the link below.

"Looking for a place to relax and unwind? Head to Spa 1899, which specialises in treatments infused with red ginseng – a Korean favourite. Choose the targeted one-hour treatment for a quick wind down, or else opt for the full-body spa package, a rejuvenative 180-minute therapy."

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핸드픽트 호텔 서울

Hotel · Daebang-dong

"This 10-storey hotel stands on the site of owner and general manager Sean Kim’s former family home. He had lofty dreams for the property, which included revitalising the sleepy neighbourhood in which he grew up. That’s why the basement restaurant and café, Ballroom, welcomes walk-ins, blurring the line between hotel guests and residents."

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레스토랑 오늘

Korean traditional full course meal restaurant · 이태원동

"Homely Korean standards reach fine-dining heights at O’neul, which translates as “today”. The restaurant appears to be designed to soothe the senses and elegantly simple plates match the airy, unadorned space. The lack of any distraction in the décor means that you’re free to focus solely on the flavours of the restaurant’s exceptional ingredients and the obvious care that its team puts into every dish. The yukgaejang (rich beef soup) is simmered for 12 hours and the kimchi has been fermented for years, not months. Leave room for the ssuk tteok waffle, a chewy rice cake hybrid that’s tinged green with mugwort."

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San Francisco Market

Men's clothing store · Apgujeong-dong

"After a decade working in Italy, Han Taemin founded this admired multi-brand shop in 2005. Here he shows the men of Seoul how to match a Lardini suit with an Engineered Garments overcoat, or Mason’s trousers with a tailored jacket. “I’m all for a good chambray shirt, a wool suit and a pair of Alden shoes,” he says. Han favours the basics, made from the best fabrics, and has a loyal clientele who appreciate his sharp attention to detail. As well as leading the way with his own brand, East Harbour Surplus, he works with partner brands to tweak products to suit South Korean tastes."

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환기미술관

Temporarily Closed

"This purpose-built museum is dedicated to Korea’s most renowned 20th-century artist, Kim Whanki, whose work appears in the collections of the Pompidou in Paris and the Guggenheim in New York – two cities he called home. Heralded as an early proponent of abstract art, Kim first rose to global prominence at the São Paulo Biennale in 1963. This prompted his move to New York, where he produced the dot paintings that made him the most sought-after Korean artist at auction to this day."

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DDP 동대문디자인플라자

Cultural center · Ihwa-dong

"Designed by Zaha Hadid, this silver-grey spaceship crash-landed in central Seoul in 2014. A massive cultural complex, the Dongdaemun Design Plaza hosts exhibitions, fashion shows and more. Hadid’s design – which won a competition held by the government – mirrors the dynamic Dongdaemun area in its free-flowing curves (it’s the world’s largest 3D amorphous building). The cladding is made up of 45,000 aluminium panels, which look different depending on the time of day and year. Drop by at night and you’ll see them glow with the reflection of nearby neon signs."

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Bukhansan National Park

National park · Jeongleung-dong

"Don’t let Seoul’s concrete towers fool you, the tallest structures in the land are the verdant mountains that envelop the city. The trails here offer hikes that range from leisurely strolls to gruelling feats of strength. On weekends the capital’s denizens sport their characteristically colourful branded clothing, grab telescopic trekking poles and fill their backpacks with snacks to share on the way, including rice cakes and makgeolli (rice wine). For the adventurous, Seoul’s highest peak in Bukhansan National Park, reaching almost 850 metres, is worth the challenge. Or for a satisfying view of downtown that won’t wear you out, walk the Seoul City Wall along the 340-metre-high Bugaksan. The latter is near the presidential residence so you’ll need to show ID."

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