Florilege, A Pioneer in Tokyo-Style Plant-Based Cuisine

"Relocated to Azabudai Hills in September 2023, this two MICHELIN star and MICHELIN Green Star restaurant now occupies the entire second floor of a Garden Plaza building beside Nishikubo Hachiman Shrine, styled like a detached house with an iron gate that opens onto a single, long table d’hôte—an intimate, communal setting central to Hiroyasu Kawate’s vision. Since the move, Kawate has shifted decisively to vegetable‑centered, plant‑based cooking, spotlighting rare Japanese produce like Kyo‑yasai over globally available meat and fish, and prioritizing flavors created through technique rather than the raw character of ingredients. Using familiar, even “common,” vegetables, he aims to upend expectations—never using cheap ingredients, but filtering them through his creativity to leave a lasting impression: daikon is baked en croute and served with Irizake instead of meat, menus revolve around seasonal themes such as fermented, spicy, or dried, and classic pairings are reimagined, as when hijiki meets beurre noisette rather than fried tofu. The shift has broadened the clientele to include many overseas visitors, while Kawate remains intent on expressing a uniquely Tokyo style here." - Kyoko Nakayama