Old New York Breathes New Life at Red Hook Tavern

"Channeling old New York in Red Hook, this 40-seat tavern feels like stepping onto a Martin Scorsese set, with turn-of-the-century lighting, dark floral walls, a handmade oak bar by local artists Martina Crivella and Dallas Owens, and even an old neighborhood liquor store sign above the door. Co-created by Billy Durney and executive chef Allison Plumer, the menu mixes traditional favorites with next-generation tavern staples: a dry-aged beef burger with white onion and American cheese on a sesame bun paying tribute to Peter Luger; a bone-in 45-day dry-aged New York strip with garlic butter and creamed spinach; littleneck clams in a chile-oil broth with garlic, white wine, and shallots; a charcuterie board featuring venison, wild boar, and citrus-marinated fennel and celery; and vegetable-forward plates like roasted corn with ’nduja, basil, lemon and radicchio cups, and brown-butter-roasted fennel with white bean purée. Desserts include two gelatos, one with homemade fudge. The drink program is equally ambitious: after tasting about 600 wines, the team narrowed the list to 160 bottles and 15 by-the-glass; beer pays homage to McSorley’s Old Ale House with light and dark pours and features locals like Folksbier’s Old Bavarian Lager; and cocktails from GM/sommelier Kenneth Crum nod to historic bars and hotels, from The Bird of Paradise (The Strangers Club, Panama City) to the Modder River (Harry Craddock at The Savoy, London). Reservations are encouraged (walk-ins accepted first-come), with dinner Tuesday–Saturday 5:00–11:00 p.m. and Sunday 5:00–10:00 p.m.; closed Monday." - Billy Lyons