"Alongside Cooke, the Manze name is to pie and mash what the Rouxs are to haute French cuisine. You can find the beautifully tiled, time capsule restaurants in Deptford, Bermondsey, and Peckham. But it’s the original on Tower Bridge Road we find ourselves most drawn to. Long brown booths, green checkerboard tiles, fizzing chilli vinegar, and everyone’s addressed as “darlin”. The suet leans soggy but the mixture is pleasingly traditional, especially alongside smears of almost-smooth mash. With the right dusting of salt and pepper, this is a plate that can be quickly shovelled down, and you can even finish with a scoop of Manze’s ice cream. " - jake missing
Aleksandra Boruch
