"Lee Ho Fook is one of many Melbourne restaurants hidden in a graffiti-scrawled laneway. Inside though this swish Chinese eatery is all polish. The menu combines modern techniques with traditional recipes, and it’s big on seafood. Think faux shark fin soup (made with mud crab) and “sea treasure” spring rolls. Upstairs it’s a tasting-menu-only scenario with optional matched Aussie wines, but downstairs is more casual and a la carte (and no less tasty)." - Ellen Fraser