"Nearly 50 years after this French bistro opened in Soho, it’s still not easy to get a reservation. The decor is charmingly eclectic, including tin ceilings and walls, plus a jarringly bright fish tank that divides the dining room. The same goes for the clientele. Squeeze into a white-tableclothed two-top (or better yet, sit at the bar) and you’re equally likely to find yourself beside decades-long regulars, sceney TikTok youth, or Robert DeNiro. The peppercorn-encrusted, watercress-topped burger au poivre is one of the best in the city, but the steak au poivre and frites are great, too. Right up front, a treacherous spiral staircase leads to the bathroom on the second floor—where you’ll sometimes also find a tarot reader." - molly fitzpatrick, willa moore, will hartman, sonal shah, neha talreja
