"At $480 a pop (gratuity included), Shion 69 Leonard Street is one of the most expensive omakases in the city. But the restaurant delivers on everything it absolutely must for the price: skillfully prepared fish, impeccable service, and enough food to not have to get a secret second dinner at McDonald’s. But what makes the two-hour meal truly outstanding is the seven-plate otsumami course in the first half, with signature dishes like butterfish in hot ponzu, a cold horsehair crab salad, and tilefish with deep-fried scales. Come to this restaurant for a special occasion, but know that throwing back sake and singing "Happy Birthday" here would be akin to doing TikTok dances in a museum." - bryan kim, neha talreja, hannah albertine, will hartman