"Well gin, the kind with a plastic screw cap, is an atrocious substance best suited for sterilizing a wound at a bachelor party in the Catskills. At Raoul’s, it also provides a fine martini. Even when made with subpar liquor, the drinks here just taste better. Open since 1975, this classic Soho spot has what baseball scouts refer to as intangibles . The food isn’t fussy, the wines aren't trendy, and the spiral staircase leading to the bathroom is so steep that you'll check to see if your insurance card is on you. But, somehow, all of those things work in the restaurant’s favor. Raoul’s is an eternally buzzy NYC bistro dressed up as a dime-store Louvre, with a variety of oil paintings and a taxidermied stag’s head in a rainbow wig. Up front, there’s a single row of tables. In the back, there’s a clubby dining room separated from the rest of the space by a fluorescent-lit fish tank. It’s inevitably hard to snag a reservation, but the bar is walk-in-only, and that’s the best place to sit. If you’re familiar with Raoul’s, there’s a good chance it’s because of the burger. Available only at the bar, it wears a full jacket of spicy peppercorns and comes topped with bitter watercress. The people here will tell you that it’s available in limited quantities—but, in our experience, that’s a bit of a bluff. If you aren't early (or charismatic) enough to snag one, don’t sweat it. Food is only a fraction of the reason why you come here, and there are plenty of other dishes to keep you occupied. Try the steak au poivre that's just as peppery as the burger and comes blanketed in buttery sauce. Or, if you’re feeling solvent, go for the banquet-sized portion of lemony dover sole. The foie gras is another great choice, and the crab beignets are the perfect fluffy bites to pop in your mouth as you watch a bartender stir a martini with the confidence of someone who does this several hundred times a night. Ultimately, it doesn't matter what you order. It matters that you're here, now. Raoul’s is in a golden age, but, like everything else, it won't last forever. All bands break up. All candles burn out. All parties turn into two people sitting on a couch, awkwardly. Don’t be one of those people. You know you’re making the most of this place when you find yourself on a bar stool, roped into a conversation with a stranger who’s six vodkas deep and intent on explaining the intricacies of the Miami crypto scene while an A-list model laughs carelessly behind you. That isn’t necessarily the hallmark of a top culinary destination, but it is indicative of an essential New York City restaurant. " - Bryan Kim
