sketch

"Price: £225 Despite looking like Willy Wonka’s 18+ playpen, the upstairs at Sketch isn’t bad. Lots has been said about this multi-restaurant Mayfair spot, not all of it good, but here the kookiness is just right. For example, a server will carefully and wordlessly portion and serve a cracker using a fork and spoon. It’s silly, especially in a room that looks like a melted pack of Smarties. Food-wise, it’s OK. There’s some good experimentation in the French dishes, and then there’s some Champagne poured straight from the bottle into your sauce. But you can’t say it’s lacking personality." - jake missing, sinead cranna