"You could break all the entries on this list into two categories: places that would put ramps on pizza, and places that would not. Ops belongs in the first bucket, but their various seasonal toppings—which range from sweet potatoes to aji dulce peppers—are only part of the reason why you come here. Tangy, fluffy, and perfectly charred, Ops’ sourdough crust is one of the better inventions of the 2010s. Most of the pies here are a cross between New York and Neapolitan-style, but there’s an exceptional, crunchy square option as well. This Bushwick spot also has a list of natural wines and a candlelit dining room, so it’s perfect for a casual date." - willa moore, bryan kim, neha talreja, kenny yang