Ceres Is a New Pizzeria From Eleven Madison Park Vets

"Opened in late January on Mott Street, this wood-paneled pizzeria — founded by Julian Geldmacher and Jake Serebnick, who met while working at Eleven Madison Park — pairs fine-dining rigor with premium pricing: whole pies run roughly $40–$63 while slices are $5–$6. Long lines and frequent sellouts have formed a ritualized demand, with many patrons buying slices to tide them over during waits. The operation emphasizes precision (sieving flour, slowly shaping dough, spiral‑spreading sauce, piping crème fraîche, and monitoring oven temperature with an infrared thermometer) and will even pause service to catch up and ensure each pie is correct. The sourdough thin crust is lightweight yet sturdy, with dark char, a moist, webby interior and tiny bubbles; the San Marzano tomato slice is concentrated and tangy, the white pie with pancetta, onion, and piped crème fraîche reads like a worthy Flammkuchen, and a shaved‑mushroom slice topped with crème fraîche and onions delivers a savory, roasted top. Higher-end pies feature components like ’nduja and stracciatella/burrata with balsamic, and the reviewer feels the focused labor, ingredients, and technique largely justify the cost and the hour-long waits." - Tammie Teclemariam