"The carnation-colored building of Borges’ youth was El Preferido de Palermo, a general store that also housed a type of tavern known as a bodegón. Catering to a clientele with immigrant roots in Spain and Italy, bodegones served as the standbys of Buenos Aires home cooking, or cocina porteña. Ask any old-timer about bodegón food, and they will universally describe it as “abundante, bueno, y barato” — abundant, good, and cheap." - Peter Kaminsky