"This is a dream team of two of the shrewdest restaurateurs in Paris: Chef Taku Sekine, who earned a big reputation at Dersou, and chef Florent Ciccoli of Jones and Café du Coin, who has repeatedly proven he knows exactly what stylish young Parisians want to eat. Together they’ve transformed a nondescript neighborhood Chinese restaurant with a bright-red façade in the ever-trendier 19th Arrondissement into one of the most hyped tables in Paris this year. The 30 spots in this small, canteen-style restaurant can only be booked via the restaurant’s website (there’s no phone), and they’ve been sold out ever since the doors opened. Fortunately, for those willing to endure a long wait, they also serve at a walk-ins-only counter with 16 stools. What’s set off the stampede is a menu of Asia meets Parisian bistronomie dishes, including sea snails in a bouillon made with shaoxing (Chinese rice wine), cinnamon, star anise, and brown sugar; piping hot bao buns filled with pork; steak tartare with tamarind sauce; chicken with watercress in a sauce of ginger, lemongrass, jasmine, white pepper, and spices; and addictive dessert bao filled with crème patissiere." - Alexander Lobrano